Welcome to The Window Seat: a blog for every traveler.

Why The Window Seat? Because if you're a traveler, it's how you take in the world around you. And because it's the best seat in the house, the one with the most captivating view - and that is precisely what this blog is about. Sharing travel perspectives and experiences.

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« February 2008 | Main | April 2008 »

Transportation Security Administration has released a pretty cool interactive multimedia explanation on their site. Checkpoint Evolution is an attempt to help us passengers wean ourselves off the old hurry-up-and-wait queue system and get us not only to move more easily, but also calmly, through security to help us help ourselves and also to help TSOs screen us more efficiently. The interactive map and related videos are a slow, steady barrage of euphemisms by a variety of personae including the chipper officer, suited administrator, and psychologist-type with whom you’re on a first name basis. It’s Catherine, by the way.

In defense of TSA, their blog is personal and surprisingly funny and honest. However, the brief timeline of airborne terrorism is unusually alarmist, even for them. Meanwhile, the “innovation" section of the site provides a cool little map with not-so-soothing red alarms that you can scroll over to learn about how TSA will use cool blues and greens in the queue to soothe passengers. Is it as psychologically effective if everyone is conscious of it? Don’t ask me, ask someone on the Checkpoint Evaluation Team (or ‘Chevo’ as I call them); click on the light box video and listen to the melodic stylings of Catherine and her English-ish voiceover voice. It’s as mellow as the light panels behind her, but as serious as a full body-cavity search.

The videos are all on YouTube and show everything from the cool new acronym-ready Automated Conveyor System which, along with the new Diamond Self-Select system will help seasoned travelers leapfrog past families with small children, people with lace ups shoes, and traveling numismatists.

My favorite video is about what’s described as a Whole Body Imager. The whole thing kind of reminds me of Total Recall. Though they claim they are “sensitive to privacy,” I’m still a bit unsure of how some guy alone in a room in front of a screen depicting a millimeter-waved image of my body is better than if he or she is on-site, but I guess it’ll make people more comfortable that the screener can’t slip a telephone number to passengers who clearly work out a lot.

The videos seem a bit thrown together, with a few natural stutters and a very Kubrickian approach to title screens, but are otherwise very reassuring. My main issue with the process is the idea that it is a further infantilization of the passenger. From being told when to eat and use the bathrooms in the air, we are now subjected to a selection of “images to prompt behavior.” I suppose I don’t mind as long as everything moves quickly and the music isn’t too irritating. TSA has done great things by setting up recycling stations for bottles and cans that you can’t take through security as well as supplying plastic zip-top bags for toiletries. Certain terms like “recomposure benches” suggest that Post-security Traumatic Stress Disorder will be prevalent, but really, I’m just excited to do an End Zone dance.

What are your thoughts and have you been through one or any of these processes yet?

Aloha indeed. It's time to wake up and smell the jet fuel. Regional carrier Aloha airlines announced their bankruptcy last week. Within days it moved from chapter 11, bankruptcy which is frequently used as the chance to get your financial house in order by numerous airlines, to chapter seven, liquidation. This signals the end for a small but significant carrier in Hawaii and the West and as of today it will suspend passenger service.

Just what does it mean for the rest of the industry?

Well the story of Aloha is long and complicated but in 2006 a leaner, meaner, cheaper competitor go! Airlines launched operations to compete with Aloha. They've been offering cheap tickets and operating at a loss ever since. Aloha was forced to lower their fares in order to keep up and…with jet fuel prices and costs being what they are for the airlines – it was impossible for Aloha to continue.

This points to the fragility of the airlines at this moment in time. But it also points to the greater differences between Aloha and the other major airlines operating today. While everyone seems to be talking about the desperation of the industry – I am of another mind. I'm impressed to see many of the airlines responding responsibly to their high operating costs and the astronomical cost of jet fuel by adjusting their business models. I think that marks a new trend in the aviation industry and one that will benefit all of the flying public in the end. Of course large airlines with domestic and international routes can pull out of a market that isn't profitable. In such a price sensitive marketplace smaller, regional players are more vulnerable.

What does it mean if you've got a ticket with Aloha Airlines? United Airlines and other airlines serving Alohas markets are prepared to service previously ticketed passengers.

Only time will tell if Aloha can pull things together to continue serving passengers but I don't expect this to launch a wave of liquidations. What will it mean for mergers? Now that's another story entirely.

Mahalo.

News Flash: Aloha Airlines Ceases Operations
  • By: Genevieve Brown
    March 31, 2008

Aloha Airlines announced Sunday that it would cease operations effective March 31, 2008. According to a news release from the airline, Aloha will run a normal schedule on March 31 with the exception of flights from Hawaii to the West Coast and flights from Orange County to Reno and Sacramento, and Oakland to Las Vegas.

Travelocity customers with plans to travel on Aloha should visit the FAQ page for more information. Travelocity agents will assist you in rebooking your flight and making adjustments to your travel plans.

United Airlines, a code-share partner of Aloha, will assist affected passengers. Customers flying on an United ticket will be rebooked on an alternate flight where space is available, for no additional charge. For customers traveling on an Aloha Airlines ticket, United offers a discounted one-way fare through the end of April.

Hawaiian Airlines has added capacity on key routes to help accommodate stranded Aloha passengers and will allow them to fly standby for no charge on the day of original travel on some flights on March 31 and on all flights April 1-3, 2008. In addition, all inter-island seats are $49 through Monday, April 7, 2008 on Hawaiian Airlines.

If you are headed to the airport and hope to fly on United or Hawaiian, bring your original ticket with you. For passengers with a future reservation on Aloha who do not wish to travel, call your credit card company and request a refund.

Aloha Airlines filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection on March 20, in part blaming what it called "predatory pricing" by competitor go! that forced Aloha to lower fares. The Associated Press (via USA Today) also cited high fuel costs as a factor in the airline's inability to generate revenue.

"This is an incredibly dark day for Hawaii," said David A. Banmiller, Aloha's president and chief executive officer. "Despite the groundswell of support from the community and our elected officials, we simply ran out of time to find a qualified buyer or secure continued financing for our passenger business. We had no choice but to take this action. "

The shutdown of operations will affect about 1,900 employees. Aloha Airlines has served the Hawaiian islands for 61 years.


Two weeks ago, I got the privilege of dog-sitting my roommate’s two heartbreakingly cute Chihuahuas. Of course, I was thrilled to play mommy to them for an entire week--but I couldn’t help feeling just a tad bit left out. After all, my roommate’s band was headed to Austin, Texas for the much-lauded South by Southwest (SXSW) music festival, which took place March 7 through 16.

SXSW is an annual event that showcases hundreds of mainly “indie” rock bands from around the world. Since the nature of independent labels is, well, that they’re not major labels, most of these bands tend to be a smidge more off-the-radar than, say, Madonna or Coldplay.

Yet, the past few years have seen SXSW and events like it explode. When it first started in 1987, the Austin expo garnered a mere 700 attendees. Its 2007 incarnation brought nearly 87,000 attendees and numerous big-name acts, and made the city a whopping $95 million in direct revenue, surpassing even Texas Longhorns home games. In fact, SXSW is now one of the largest music festivals in the U.S. It’s even spawned direct offshoots such as Toronto’s North by Northeast (NXNE) and even the playfully named, Austin-based GAYbiGAYGAY (yes, it’s a gay and lesbian-themed event).

The growing number--and popularity--of indie-themed music events makes travel both entertaining and educational. Who knew, for example, that central Austin boasts more original music nightclubs in one concentrated area than any other city in the world?

Trivia aside, it’s the art, films, nightlife, and great crowds that make the upcoming indie-themed festivals below more than worth your while--even if major-label names do creep into several of the lineups. Oh, and did I mention the music? Suffice it to say that it totally rocks.


Coachella - Indio, CA (near Palm Springs), April 25 to 27, 2008
Sasquatch Music Festival - George, WA, May 24 to 26, 2008
North by Northeast (NXNE) - Toronto, Ontario, Canada, June 12 to 15, 2008
Mission Creek Music and Arts Festival - San Francisco, CA, July 17 to 20, 2008
Reading Festival - Reading, United Kingdom, August 22 to 24, 2008
Mid-American Music Festival - Omaha, NE, September 3 to 7, 2008
Austin City Limits Music Festival - Austin, TX, September 26 to 28, 2008

plane window.jpg Funny Safety Videos
  • By: Alison Presley
    March 27, 2008

The moment they announce that the flight safety video is coming on, I think, “Ah…let the nap officially begin.” I know the information is important, but I've been flying for 30 years and could probably recite the rules in my sleep.

Finally, the industry has taken notice of this trend. In a bid to entice you to sit up and tune in, major airline carriers are updating their videos with humor, sultry backbeats that seem better suited to ultra-lounges, and easy-on-the-eyes instructors.

This week, when Delta Air Lines released their new safety video on their corporate blog, it caused such a stir that USA Today took notice. The video features a Delta flight attendant who bears a striking resemblance to Angelina Jolie, causing fans to dub her "Deltalina." Here, take a look, but promise me you won't stop until the part where she playfully wags her finger at the camera, insisting in a smoking-hot way that smoking is not allowed.

On the more humorous end of the spectrum, Virgin Atlantic and Virgin America have animated safety videos featuring nuns, guys dressed in street wear, and even bulls(!) trying to abide by the safety rules, but at times failing hilariously, like causing the bathroom smoke alarm to go off. My favorite bit comes at the end of the Virgin America video, when it says, "We promise to do everything we can to make sure you have a safe, comfortable flight." (pregnant pause) "Not the least of which is ending this speech now." Ha!

I think these videos are a stroke of genius. They've got a captive audience who can't use approved electronic devices during their showing, and now that they're compelling I could see myself actually paying attention.

What about you?

p310105-Haiti-House_in_village_of_Terrier_Rouge_Haiti.jpgCleaning the World
  • By: Charlie Davidson
    March 25, 2008

This morning, I noticed that my right shoulder was pretty sore. Figuring it was due to some errant check from a hockey game the night before, I wrote it off until I went into the bathroom and saw the gleaming tile and mirror-like fixtures of the tub. Last night, already relatively gross from the game, I got to work scrubbing and trying to avoid the occasional blasts of scalding hot water that I employed to rinse the grout I’d just been over. It was hardly enviable work, but there was something cathartic about it beyond even the fact that I knew my bathroom was pretty filthy and really needed the cleaning. Perhaps it was the sunny, warmer weather that’s been rolling through the city, but it seemed that with each tile scoured, winter’s hold was loosened ever so slightly by an expiating combination of bleach, a scrub brush, and elbow grease.

Photo courtesy of IgoUgo member ladyanne47

Cleaning is a nuisance, but after a long winter of living like a pack rat, insulating windows and hoarding sweaters, it feels good to start anew. It’s no coincidence that the feeling is generally pervasive. Spring cleaning seems to be attributed to the Persians in a tradition called khane tekani, meaning “shaking the house.” However, a Jewish tradition of removing chametz before Passover also becomes a cleaning ritual—and also seems to share similarities with Easter’s egg hunt. Speaking of which, “Easter Cleaning” is apparently a popular activity for Christians and Catholics around the world; in Greece, Clean Monday” is post-Lenten celebration.

Though all these traditions are slightly different, notice they are all at similar times of the year (spring, basically), and really are all linked by the idea of starting over and cleansing before enjoying the nice weather. OK, maybe people weren’t getting excited about the prospect of tanning when these rituals were thought up, but our continuation of them as secular events shows that there is something innate in expunging the house—if not the soul—when the thaw comes.

When I was in Peru years ago, I visited the tiny town of Chincheros, whose colorful flag and vivid textiles were constantly on display against the backdrop of bright, whitewashed houses. Whitewashing the houses was a town ordinance and not only kept everything looking nice, but created that same sense of starting fresh, and the residents also included a general house cleaning as part of their re-facing project. As the high Andean sun glinted of the facades of the houses, you could almost hear the collective sigh of relief from the townspeople as they settled into their houses which were now clean, inside and out.

I’m curious—is this ritual evident in any other cultures around the world? Let me know.

News Flash: Air Passenger Bill of Rights Overturned
  • By: Genevieve Brown
    March 25, 2008

New York State's new air passenger bill of rights law has been overturned by the 2nd U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals, according to the Associated Press (via CNNMoney.com). The appeals court ruled that the law " . . . interferes with federal law governing the price, route or service of an air carrier."

The law went into effect on January 1, 2008 and required, among other things, that airlines provide food, water, clean toilets and fresh air to passengers trapped in a plane delayed on the ground. The law had not yet been enforced, and was contested by the Air Transport Association of America, the industry trade group representing leading U.S. airlines. Several other states have modeled passenger's bill of rights plans after the New York State plan; no word on how this new ruling will impact those bills.

Kruger.JPGCaught on Tape
  • By: Michelle Doucette
    March 25, 2008

In the battle of the YouTube all-stars, Battle at Kruger reigned supreme, snagging the 2007 YouTube Video Award in the Eyewitness category.

I watched the 8-minute opus for the first time this weekend, and (like 27 million others before me) sat glued to my computer screen as lions stalked a buffalo calf, battled a crocodile for it, and staged a Sharks-Jets-style showdown when the young buffalo’s herd returned. And the most amazing part of all? The gnawed-on calf survives the tug-o-war.

Photo courtesy of IgoUgo member sjmclaughlin

The video, shot in South Africa’s Kruger National Park in 2004, is a captivating amateur travel video, one that caught even the eyes of National Geographic Channel and ABC News.

In the spirit of the awards, I thought I’d give a virtual toast to the other travel videos that transported me to new places—or made me smile—this year, since travel is not yet a category in the YouTube version. So here’s to you:

-Davey Dance Blog, especially when you rocked out on the New York City subway. The MTA has never been so much fun.

-Samsung Mobile and SX Media, for encouraging people to dance for cameras in 10 European cities. I challenge anyone to watch this video and not feel like dancing.

-Pluto the man-dog—you made Disney World fun again with your completely inappropriate chase scene.

-Driver who condensed a cross-country trip into 4 minutes flat. The drive from LA to New York is ridiculously creative, and much less moldy than the video of the time-lapse tomato.

-Improv Everywhere, for the awesome Grand Central freeze stunt that’s swept the Web (I even prefer it to their “no-pants” subway ride videos).

-Planes, specifically the Lufthansa jet shown in the horrifying runway video with a happy ending. The tape, which shows an aborted landing during a violent wind storm, is the kind of footage that makes you feel lucky to be alive, and on solid ground.

It's amazing to me the range of emotions, and places, readily available via YouTube. Are there others that I've missed?

Aloha Airlines filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection on Thursday, citing "predatory pricing" practices by its competitor go! , a Mesa Air Group subsidiary.

This is the second time the airline has filed for bankruptcy protection. According to the Associated Press (via The New York Times), Aloha emerged from previous bankruptcy protection in February 2006, 14 months after filing under Chapter 11.

The airline, according to its web site, has asked the Court for permission to continue flying as it operates under bankruptcy protection. As long as this request is granted, customers can expect all existing reservations to be honored and to be able to make new reservations. For now, frequent flier programs remain unaffected, and customers will continue to earn mileage credit.

For more information, Travelocity customers should visit the FAQ page.


woodstock.jpgPrescription: Day Trip
  • By: Cameron Siewert
    March 24, 2008

If you’re an American who’s been tuned into the news lately, you’re probably finding it difficult to paint a picture of travel in 2008 that’s anything but bleak. You’ve seen the stack of travel-associated fees rise. You’ve been privy to the latest airline fiascos. You’re aware of the sobering decline of the dollar. And if you’re anything like me, you’re still trying to wrap your head around the series of crises related to the US economy. It’s all a virtual kick in the shins to the avid traveler, and I count myself among the injured ranks.

We all keep hearing that domestic travel is the way to go, and while I’m down with that—I’m a little embarrassed at how much of my home country I haven’t seen—I’ve found that staying even closer to home is a great way to get some instant relief. And the relief, it turns out, isn’t just temporary: a day trip done right can be a powerful cure for the ailing traveler.

Photo by IgoUgo member Constance

The doctor’s orders:

1. Take it easy.
Pick a spot within a few hours of home, and don’t go nuts with the planning. A day trip will easily save you money and time, but keep it simple: save yourself the headache(s) of planning too. On a recent day trip to Woodstock, New York, a friend and I passed on anything that required advance planning (a monastery tour, dinner reservations) and set out with nothing more than driving directions, a few restaurant ideas from a quick online search, and no intentions other than to find a place to park and just wander, seeing where the day would take us. It turned out to be an excellent approach.

2. Drink plenty of fluids.
Day trips are the perfect chance to linger over a cup of coffee or hot chocolate (perfect on a snowy day in upstate New York), take lots of little breaks throughout the day, and go for that beer at 4pm. One caveat: if you’re driving, you know to allow yourself plenty of time to sober up before driving home. Better yet, make drinking the one thing you plan ahead of time—if you don’t want to worry about that third glass of wine with dinner, opt for a bus or train instead of driving. You can make the trip a bonafide part of the vacation by bringing your own picnic along for the ride (I recommend coffee, pastries, and a bottle each of Prosecco and OJ for on-the-spot mimosas to take the edge off an early-morning departure).

3. Lay off the bad habits.
They are: constantly checking your cell phone (or, worse, your BlackBerry); bringing work with you “just to look over on the way there”; engaging in any type of work talk; or keeping a rigid schedule. Yes, it’s just a day trip, but treating it as an item on your to-do list defeats the purpose entirely. For best results, treat it as you would a real vacation: turn off your phone, leave work at home, and get into that relaxed mindset. In a way, a day trip is the best kind of trip there is: no hassle, no packing, and no need to plan for (or freak out about) being away from home—and work—for any consequential period of time.

4. Try an alternative treatment.
With only a day to enjoy your destination, the absolute best way to make the most of your time is to put away the guidebook and experience it as the locals do. Tried-and-true travelers, I know I’m preaching to the choir, but this is especially important when you’re packing a vacation punch into a small timeframe. My friend and I took advantage of the slow pace of this quiet winter weekend and spoke to everyone we met. We got some excellent advice on where to stop for lunch—and what life is like after New York City—from an NYC expat who now owns a cozy little bookstore, The Golden Notebook, on Woodstock’s main street. We got the scoop on Woodstock’s local character from an intern at the Center for Photography, a lovely museum that showcases New York artists’ work and offers classes and programs for locals. We even indulged in Woodstock’s hippie culture with a tarot-card reading (apparently I worry too much—reason enough for another day trip in the near future). Had we not made the extra effort to start conversations with the people we encountered, it would have been just another day of shopping. Thanks to these small encounters, we stepped out of our element and immersed ourselves—if just for a short time—in a different way of life.

5. Savor your recovery.
Take pictures. Buy souvenirs. Relish those familiar feelings of excitement and intense satisfaction that can only be stirred to life through travel—they will make an appearance. After a fantastic day of wandering around Woodstock, my friend and I planned to drive home and stop for dinner somewhere along the way. At the last second, though, we decided first to make a detour to nearby Big Indian for a drink at Peekamoose, a restaurant we’d read about recently. We ended up loving the atmosphere—and the menu—so much that we stayed for hours. After dinner, we roasted marshmallows over a campfire on the patio in the gently falling snow. This unplanned detour made for a longer drive home and a last-minute call to extend our car rental, but it ended up being the most memorable part of the trip. I felt weightless, happy, and tired in that way that preludes a wonderfully satisfying night of sleep. I felt like I was on vacation.

beach chair.jpgSummer Travel: Controling Costs
  • By: Genevieve Brown
    March 21, 2008

It seems to be the question on every travel journalist's mind: Will people stop traveling due to high costs and an uncertain economy? Here's the short answer: No. But we may see changes in the way people travel and may need to adjust our attitude on what constitutes a good "deal." For me personally, it's hard to imagine a price point that would make me stop traveling -- it's just that important to me, and I find ways to make it work. After all, I recently flew to Italy for just three days of skiing -- would have loved to have stayed longer, but the Euro is killing me. So, I had a shorter-than-usual trip -- but I still went. Shorter trips are just one way that people adjust their travels when they're trying to control their vacation costs.

Yesterday on the Fox News show "Studio B with Shepard Smith," I talked about a few other ways travelers can try to control costs this summer. You've all heard the advice to book early, but with service cutbacks by a few airlines, there's going to be stiff competition for the least-expensive seats and booking far in advance is as important as ever for those of you who have your heart set on a particular destination.

Watch the video, or read on for my three other tips:


St. John beach chair photo courtesy of IgoUgo member Jose Kevo.

1. Try interlining, or booking one-way segments on multiple carriers rather than a round-trip ticket. So – for example – flying Delta outbound and American on your return can yield savings.

2. Booking a total trip – or bundling your airfare, hotel, and any other extras such as a rental car together – gives you access to savings you can’t get by booking separately. On Travelocity, we’ve seen this saves $240 on average.

3. Look to cruising and all-inclusive resorts – paying one price up front is an excellent way to control costs and stay within budget.

And finally, Shepard was kind enough to remind me of another fantastic way to save money on airfare -- by using the "flexible date" search function on Travelocity. And really, I think flexibility -- whether your dates or your destination or both -- is the key to staying within your budget this summer.

Travel+Leisure.jpg America's Favorite Cities? You decide!
  • By: Holly Burns
    March 20, 2008

Alright, I'm biased. If asked to name my favorite American city, I wouldn't hesitate to bestow the honor on San Francisco---but that's because I've wanted to live here since first visiting at the tender age of eighteen, and now that I do, I can hardly believe my luck.

But what about where I'd most like to go for a romantic break? Well, um, San Francisco, I'm afraid. And my pick for the city with the best ethnic eats? You guessed it---San Francisco again.

Travel + Leisure magazine is currently conducting its annual America's Favorite Cities survey, and if you don't want San Francisco to steal the show in every single category---oh, you know I'll be voting for it again and again---you might want to head over there and start ticking a few boxes.

When the results of last year's survey were announced, eyebrows were raised: did Charleston, South Carolina really beat out Chicago and Los Angeles to come in at number two in Best Cities For Shopping? What could've happened to that famous Southern charm to make Dallas place last in the Best People category? And why did all those poor Philadelphians get voted as the least attractive residents of the bunch?

From now until June 15, you can have your say on 25 of America's top cities just by filling out Travel + Leisure's survey with your expert opinions. Even better? As soon as you complete the survey, you'll be entered into a drawing to win a trip for two to Australia.

My advice? Rate San Francisco for everything! Then again, don't listen to me---I just live here.


Here’s the situation: I have only skied twice in my life in conditions that many West Coasters would sneer at. Both times were many, many years ago, in fake machine-generated snow, on soft and forgiving East Coast slopes. In one case, I fell so spectacularly (cartwheeling head over skis into the air) that a person on the ski lift above actually shouted down at me to make sure I was okay.

In a couple weeks, I head to Vail, Colorado, where the snow is the real deal, and the mountains are thousands of feet higher than those in Pennsylvania’s White Tail and Virginia’s Wintergreen. I’ll be going with friends who currently reside in Colorado, and who spend every weekend that they can snowboarding. While they shred the triple-zillion black-diamond runs and conquer the K-12 a la Lane Myer, my plan is to take a lesson and baby my days away on the bunny slope. But what I can’t decide regarding my lesson is, skiing or snowboarding?

Photo courtesy of IgoUgo member NSXEatr.

I’m leaning toward ski, only because that’s what I’ve done before and something seems more balanced to me about having two points of contact with the ground. But, in polling some of my friends and colleagues, the overwhelming suggestion I’m getting is to try snowboarding.

And, by the way, this trip wouldn’t be possible at all if it wasn’t for amazing late-season ski deals. My friends and I will be staying in an incredibly posh three-bedroom townhome at the Vail Racquet Club for a ridiculously low price, and it’s very possible that it’ll be so nice I won’t even want to leave the house to hit the slopes at all.

But the call of the Rockies cannot go ignored, and I cannot go unchallenged (read: un-humiliated). I’m prepared for some serious muscle ache either way, but I do want to be able to have some fun with it, too. Mainly, I’ll just be happy to be outdoors and in a beautiful place. So what do you suggest—skiing, snowboarding, or something else altogether? Thanks in advance for your advice, and I’ll let you know what I choose in a few weeks.

p211315-Buenos_Aires-Recoleta_Cemetary.jpgBuenos Aires Is Where It's At
  • By: Amy Ziff
    March 17, 2008

I know it's St. Patrick's day and so I'm supposed to be talking about Ireland. But let us broaden our minds. Europe is so expensive these days! So guess what is better than feeling like you're in Europe without actually paying for it? TIme's up. (I suspect you didn't come up with anything.) This is reason numero uno, my friends, to visit Argentina. The capital city of Buenos Aires boast architecture that compares to the finest European cities combined with a Latin spirt that makes the place distinct. A few years ago the early adopters started to head their way to BA.

The seasons are opposite from ours making it a refreshing climate change but given that we're on the same time zone there's no jet-lag. Let me say that again -- the feel of Europe comes without the jet-lag. Reason number two for visiting BA. Not surprisingly it has become increasingly popular. This weekend the New York Times travel section talked about one of my very favorite destiantions.

Photo by IgoUgo member Jim

The only problem with the article was that in their where to stay, what to do section they neglected to mention what I found to be some of the very best of Buenos Aires: Recoleta and the awe-inspiring hotel the Park Hyatt Palacio Duhau. Reason number 3 to visit. Seriously. It's my favorite hotel in the entire world (at least so far!). And even if you can't stay there, just go for tea overlooking the garden the bridge between the old and new parts of the hotel. Or have a drink or smoke a cigar in the oak bar . Or partake in a wine tasting. Don't miss a slow exploration of every area of the hotel. Check out the art on display the careful attention to details in the restored part of the hotel, the flower boutique on view adjacent to the underground art gallery. Enter the hotel on Avenue Alvear and exit on Posados to be sure you've taken it all in. Then wander the shop-lined streets and famed cemetary around this barrio and enjoy the fact that while the stores aren't cheap (it's the equivalent of 5th or Madison Avenue in Manhattan) it's not as costly as Paris!

Of course there are many other wonderful things to explore in BA. I'd suggest you go for yourself and discover them all.

Gay Thailand Gay Thailand: Paradise in More Ways Than One
  • By: Jessica Tyler
    March 14, 2008

San Francisco--check. Provincetown, Mass.--check. Miami--check. Gay and lesbian travelers have an increasingly broad--and exuberant--array of gay-friendly U.S. destinations to pick from. Internationally, we’ve also got “gay” Paris, Rio de Janeiro, Amsterdam, Canada, and more. But tilt the globe in an entirely different direction, and the average lesbian, gay, bisexual, or transgender (LGBT) person might have no clue where to get their gay on.

Seeking outside-the-box destinations that are also easy on the dollar, many savvy American travelers have recently made Thailand their getaway of choice. But how do gay and lesbian travelers rate this tropical nation? I asked openly gay friends and colleagues James Harris and Mario Diaz for their thoughts on their recent Thailand trips.

Photo courtesy of IgoUgo member nova_chic.

The Window Seat: Tell me about your trip to Thailand. What did you do, and where?
James: I went to Bangkok on business--it was great.
Mario: I was in Thailand for five weeks total. I volunteered for four weeks teaching English in a village in the Isaan province. I lived with a Thai family, and was able to travel during the weekends. For one week at the end I visited places like Chiang Mai, Sukhothai, Si Satchanalai, Phimai, Ayuthaya, and Bangkok. It was an amazing experience, to say the very least!

TWS: Did you go to any LGBT-friendly establishments?
James: Yes, in Bangkok. The area I went to was called Silom, which hosted two main streets, Soi 2 and Soi 4. It’s one of about four or so total gay areas in Bangkok. It was really easy to get around, because a lot of people speak English, and street signs are often in both English and Thai. It’s a very open city; everyone is really welcoming.
Mario: No, but Thailand in general tends to be very LGBT-friendly.

TWS: Were you “out” while you were there?
James: Not particularly, but I didn’t hide it.
Mario: I was not openly "out"--but that doesn't mean people couldn't figure it out on their own! The Thai, aside from being very friendly, tend to be very tolerant and respectful of others. I was never intimidated by the fact that they might suspect I was gay.

TWS: Did you notice other LGBT people? If so, how could you tell?
James: It’s hard to tell, especially as an outsider. The world is also changing--people are beginning to blend together and gay ghettos are becoming more disseminated.
Mario: Well, some of the boys tended to be very flamboyant. No questions there. Some transgender people were harder to identify, until I heard them speak.

TWS: Is safety an issue for LGBT people there? Did you or other “out” people feel safe, accepted, or comfortable?
James: Completely. I felt totally comfortable, and I felt like others did too.
Mario: Absolutely! From my experience, Thailand is way ahead of its time in terms of LGBT issues. The Western world has a lot to learn from them.

TWS: Did you notice any difference between LGBT culture in cities like Bangkok versus in more rural areas?
Mario: I, personally, did not. Before I went to Thailand, I read that you don’t necessarily find the same openness toward LGBT people in rural areas that you do in Bangkok or other large cities. However, that didn't seem to be true in the village that I was living in. I saw teenage boys that left no doubt as to their sexuality, and they seemed very comfortable with themselves. Despite their flamboyance, even other, presumably heterosexual teenage boys seemed comfortable around them, too.

TWS: Do you feel that Western culture has had an impact on LGBT culture in Thailand?
James: The clubs and bars I went to in Bangkok were definitely Western-influenced. When you visit Mexico, you get a lot of Latin music in clubs and bars. But in Thailand, Western music, such as house music, is everywhere.
Mario: No, and I hope it never does. On the contrary, my hope is that Thailand will have more of an impact on Western cultures when it comes to sexuality. We’ve got a lot to learn.

TWS: Did you notice any difference between how gay men, lesbians, bisexuals, or transsexuals were treated?
James: I did see quite a few transgender people outside of gay areas. They seemed to be more evident, and possibly more accepted, than any other LGBT people I saw.
Mario: Looking back, gay men were a lot more noticeable--but I think that’s usually true in most places around the world. I occasionally did see transgender people, and they seemed well integrated, just as the gay men were.

TWS: Would you recommend Thailand as a destination for other LGBT travelers?
James: Absolutely! I loved Bangkok. The food is amazing, the hotels are phenomenal (especially Lebua and the Millennium Hilton), and you absolutely must take a ride in one of their water taxis. I would also definitely recommend traveling outside of Bangkok, since Thailand has so many beautiful beaches and Buddhist temples.
Mario: This goes without saying--yes! I would recommend Thailand to anyone and everyone! There is no other place like it.

Check out James's photographs here, on his IgoUgo profile.

FRA_17271_Metro.jpg Speak Out: Why Do You Travel?
  • By: Alison Presley
    March 13, 2008

Every traveler has a moment like this one. I'd been hanging around Paris for a few weeks and decided to explore the Sacré-Cœur Basilica. After climbing every single step to the top and wandering through the cathedral itself, I was ready to park myself in a café for a while. As I plunked back down the stairs, worn out and bedraggled, a familiar song caught my ears.

"Country roads…take me home…to the place…I belong…West Virginia."

I wandered over to two young Frenchman playing acoustic guitars and joined in signing a wacky tribute to the late, great John Denver. It was a silly moment, to be sure, but one in which the world felt both stranger than ever before--and yet shared.

Currently the New York Times is running a piece called "Why We Travel." Unfortunately, the globetrotters polled only address why they went on a particular trip. But it did get me thinking about my reasons in general, and so now I ask all of you: why do you travel?

Do you go to learn about cultures other than your own? Or is it, in the words of Sir Edmund Hillary, "Because it is there"? Do you see yourself as an ambassador, taking your culture to other parts of the world, or do you go to lend a hand to regions in need? Or perhaps you have an addiction to posh hotels, a passion for tracking down culinary treats, or just can't sit still?

For me, I travel to feel outside of my familiar self. In other countries facing brand-new situations, my behavior can surprise even me. Plus, I love to learn how other people in the world think.

p141550-Rio_de_Janeiro-Favelas.jpgClass Travel Business
  • By: Charlie Davidson
    March 12, 2008

The New York Times recently ran an article about slum tourism or, as they refer to it, “poorism.” The piece claims that “tourists are forsaking, at least for a while, beaches and museums for crowded, dirty—and in many ways surprising—slums.” I can understand that people are concerned with this—class seems to be one of the most consistent and perpetually yawning prejudices between groups of people. From being born into castes to simply living like “the other half,” whichever that half is, it seems that people often have difficulty looking past privilege—or lack thereof—despite the inability to control it.

photo courtesy of IgoUgo member nik-nak

Without getting too deep into a discussion about class in and of itself, I think that it’s important to recognize that not all “poorism” is merely exploitative or voyeuristic. The article says that “a church group in Mazatlán, Mexico, runs tours of the local garbage dump, where scavengers earn a living picking through trash, some of it from nearby luxury resorts. The group doesn’t charge anything but asks participants to help make sandwiches and fill bottles with filtered water. The tours have proven so popular that during high season the church group has to turn people away.” It’s hard to fault people who are looking to help, even if there is an ulterior motive of seeing a place or way of life that would ordinarily be off-limits.

When I was a teenager, I spent a month with a group in Dominica, living on Carib land and working with natives on projects within the reserve. We slept on a concrete schoolhouse floor, sharing the space with ants and assorted beetles. The kids in the area spent the first day collected around the window slats, staring in at us as we settled in and tried not to appear unsettled. At first, there was a good degree of awkwardness when we were unpacking our clothes in front of kids who had maybe two t-shirts if they were lucky.

Of course, it didn’t take long before we were friendly with the kids and most of the local craftsmen who appreciated our extra hands working on a new school house and local garage, and who taught us some of the requisite skills to build: some carpentry, cement-mixing, masonry, and plumbing. Despite the severe median between the paths of our lives up until that point—we arrived with cassette players that were more or less unattainable on the poorest island in the Caribbean—we started to become family. We were invited to houses where we met friends and friends of friends; we shared meals and played cricket with the kids.

To be honest, my experience on Dominica could be viewed as “poorism,” and the work I did there could be considered, the way one person interviewed by the Times put it, as a cheap way “to make Westerners feel better about their station in life.” There is no denying that, despite a desire to help and a willingness to rough it for a month, I was still heading back to New York City where my greatest concerns would involve my second-period Trigonometry class. That knowledge that my lot was not permanent naturally made suffering centipede bites and dysentery a bit more bearable than if I was living in one of the huts above the river, but there was never a time when I felt like or, more importantly, was made to feel like a tourist.

I challenge anyone to claim that expanding one’s horizons does not go both ways. There is no doubt that as much as I was changed by what I saw and did and by whom I met, that they were equally as affected by my presence and the effort and care that I put into helping. Perhaps wandering through a shantytown is different from what I did, but I bet people who live at The Dakota probably don’t love the throngs of Beatles-fan photographers who mill about their home either. Living there shouldn’t subject them to privacy invasion. The separation between a travel experience and a classist example of voyeurism is arguably slim, but is also easily defined by how you approach and treat the people involved.

Fort_Worth_TX-The_Daily_Cattle_Drive_by Dutchnatasja.jpgDestinations You Never Wanted To Visit
  • By: Jennifer Gaines
    March 11, 2008

A few weeks ago, Amy wrote about the spring break that wasn’t supposed to happen. You know; the one that travelers are still taking despite the drooping economy. Prices are up, but families are still getting out of town.

Being a traveler – and a budget traveler at that – I was inspired to dig up spring break travel inventory that is begging to be purchased. I wanted to see exactly where I could go (from San Francisco) for a few hundred bucks, and what I found was a list of seemingly lackluster places that travelers never wanted to visit. Well, until now.

Take Ft. Worth, Texas, for instance. Now, I grew up near “Cowtown,” so I’m a bit disgruntled by the fact that some people – without even coming here – would call this place, dare I say, boring. But, this is a myth that I’m about to shatter. I spent many breaks as a child exploring its museums, playing in its parks and indulging in its restaurants. Boots and 10-gallon hats are the stereotype here. Indeed, cowboy culture infuses just about every nook and cranny of this place, but in a way that’s charming and somewhat magical. Explore the Stockyards National Historic District for a bit of local flavor, and don’t miss the Texas Cowboy Hall of Fame. Ride on Puffy, a 1896 Steam locomotive that travels along the historic Cotton Belt Route, or indulge in Tex-Mex cuisine at Joe T. Garcia’s for the best alfresco dining in town.

Here are a few other budget-friendly destinations that you probably never thought to visit:

  • Tallahassee, Fla.: Often called “The Other Florida,” Tallahassee evokes a sense of Southern-hospitality that can’t be found anywhere else in the state. Drive along its oak-lined streets to one of the sprawling plantations, or visit the Capitol buildings for a glimpse of the city’s deep-rooted history. To experience the outdoors, try a hunting or fishing expedition or just relax on one of the nearby beaches.
  • Pittsburgh, Pa.: Celebrating its 250th birthday this year, Pittsburgh has managed to modernize its city-center and maintain its historical charm. Visit the Andy Warhol Museum or catch a show at Cabaret Pittsburgh, a premier nightspot. Sate your desire for seclusion with a side trip to Pittsburgh’s countryside, where you can explore its iconic covered bridges, wineries and trails.
  • Milwaukee, Wis.: “Schlemiel! Schlimazel! Hasenpfeffer Incorporated!" The popular TV show Laverne and Shirley called attention to the breweries that built this city, but Milwaukee has since shed its beer baron image. Take the family to Maple Sugar Days (March 15-16), or visit Discovery World at Pier Wisconsin, the Betty Brinn Children's Museum or the International Clown Hall of Fame.
  • Boise, Idaho: Even though it’s known mostly for its potatoes, Boise boasts an outdoor playground worth bragging about. Tackle the rapids on a white water rafting adventure down the Payette River, or explore nearby trails. City slickers yearning for some culture should head to Grove Street, a.k.a. Basque Block. There, visitors can explore the Basque Museum to learn how Boise became home to the largest Basque population in the country.

Now, you're probably wondering why you should even consider these lesser-known, not-so-sexy destinations, but visiting places that aren’t known as Spring Break hot spots come with a few notable bragging rights:

  • You’ll likely be the only person in your circle of friends to have vacationed there, but before you know it, you'll be setting a trend.
  • There’s no need to take out a second mortgage to pay for the trip – these places are budget-friendly.
  • You don't need a whole week to get to know many of these destinations, so you can save by taking a shorter break.
  • The kiddos will really appreciate it when next time you take them somewhere they actually want to visit.

Photo Courtesy of IgoUgo Member Dutchnatasja.

Graffiti.jpgInternational Street Art
  • By: Michelle Doucette
    March 11, 2008

Walking around Rio proved hazardous for me earlier this year, but only because I was looking everywhere except where I was going. Early on, my artist friends made sure I didn’t miss the explosion of art crawling up buildings and curving around walls, and I had my eyes—and my camera lens—on Rio’s world-class street art for the rest of the week.

Since that trip, I’ve been noticing graffiti—and graffiti appreciation—everywhere: in the Sao Paulo video Jessica recently shared; in the New York Times and TIME Magazine; in accounts of Bristol, England; on my walk to work in Manhattan. And also in my memories of other places. There’s something about the way street art reflects the place it’s found while also hinting at the artists’ often global travels that draws me in.

Besides Rio, here are my three favorite destinations for impromptu outdoor art.

Belfast: The West Belfast murals, and the art along the city’s Peace Wall, epitomize political street art and simultaneously create senses of history and urgency. I loved Belfast in general, and touring the murals was the highlight of my trip to Ireland.

Berlin: In another street-art scene rife with bold political statements, the remaining segments of the Berlin Wall boast colorful murals that only add to their importance.

Barcelona: When I think of Barcelona, I think of wandering La Rambla at night while maybe a dozen artists show off their work on the asphalt and human statues pose alongside the avenue. By day, Barcelona’s collection of street art is equally impressive.

Please share your favorite scenes as well—it’s time to update my travel to-do list!

Ghoulash.jpgAn Ode to Foodie Travel
  • By: Cameron Siewert
    March 10, 2008

As anyone who has traveled with me (or is casually acquainted with me) can attest, the first travel-planning question I ask is not “Where should I stay?” or “What should I do?”, but rather, “What do I want to eat?” For me, a trip is defined by its meals. I’m all for amazing sights and sounds, but the smells and tastes of a place stick with me the longest and most profoundly. Likewise, when I decide where to go, it’s the promise of new flavors and textures that calls me to my chosen destination.

Because of that, one of my favorite things to do is reminisce on particularly great meals I’ve had. I grew up in a place where burgers, barbecue, and Tex-Mex might very well seem to encompass the world’s culinary landscape; when we got a McDonald’s in my hometown in 1994, it made the front page of the newspaper. And while this did instill in me a reverence for good Tex-Mex (and an occasional craving for a Happy Meal), it actually made me a more adventurous eater from a young age. One of my first memories (at age 4) is of relishing pillowy scones with clotted cream and raspberry jam from Marks & Spencer in London—a food product I would still gladly board a plane for at any hour of the day or night (yes, they’re pre-packaged, but you’d never know it).

I remember my first time trying sushi, circa 1996, at the only restaurant in a 200-mile radius to serve it. The restaurant had just opened, and a single sushi chef was employed after 5pm to prepare what was still an alien food in the Panhandle of Texas. I remember the thrill of feeling my first piece of tuna sashimi on my tongue, wincing at an overly optimistic dab of wasabi, reveling at how fish could taste so…not fishy. I remember leaving the restaurant and being absolutely bowled over that I felt full, but not weighed down (a novel sensation for someone used to the post-Tex-Mex, time-for-a-nap full feeling). It’s strange now to travel back to a time and place where sushi was unfamiliar or even completely unheard of, but my discovery of it was nothing short of life-changing. Since then, reproducing that feeling has become something of a life’s passion for me, especially when I’m traveling.

As a result, my list of meals I’d cross an ocean to have again is always growing. I’d drop everything for a full breakfast spread of gallo pinto and pancakes with guava jam in Costa Rica; I’d brave Prague in winter for a plate of earthy, warming goulash and a pint of Kozel; I’d swim all the way to Tobago for a fresh-caught flying fish fillet, fried up and served on a sandwich with a healthy lug of homemade pepper sauce; I’d endure a middle seat for steak tartare and French cheese to finish in the Place des Vosges; I’d lay down my life to relive this meal.

It’s because of people like me (and all of you who are nodding your heads, remembering your most memorable meals) that IgoUgo has launched the IgoUgo Community Table, a one-stop shop for travelers