From how Beijing plans to eradicate rain to when athletes will arrive in China, I’ve been obsessed with reading the latest Olympics news (and emailing it to all my friends—sorry, guys) for the past year. I thought that as someone who had both recently visited Beijing and attended previous Summer Olympics, I might be uniquely obsessed with the 2008 Games.
It turns out that plenty of Americans are not only interested, but set to attend: Travelocity’s Beijing air bookings are 70% ahead of where they were last year, and Beijing hotel bookings are on pace to be 200% ahead. With only 178 days before the opening ceremony at the “bird’s nest” stadium, there isn’t enough flight and hotel availability to accommodate everyone at the current paces, so you’d best book now—or get creative.
Here are some tips to get you there, along with ideas to let you cheer on your team while experiencing Beijing at its best.
1. Consider alternate (and sometimes cheaper!) routes to Beijing
Add a second destination to your China vacation: fly from the US to Shanghai, Tianjin, or Nanjing, and after visiting, hop a domestic flight or train to Beijing. Shanghai was a last-minute add-on to my Beijing trip, and I loved the city. The overnight train I took from Shanghai to Beijing was nicer than any I’ve traveled on in the US or Europe—just be sure to book a soft-sleeper compartment on a Z-class (newer) train. And when the time comes, head for the Western-style bathroom.
Nanjing and Tianjin are rail gateways as well, and even cheaper places to book a room than Shanghai or Beijing. Plus, they offer massive amounts of history: Both will be on my itinerary the next time I go to Asia. If you prefer to fly China’s skies, China Eastern Airlines and China Southern Airlines service all these cities.
2. Choose a hotel located in a hutong neighborhood
These traditional courtyard communities, with their winding streets and neighborly atmosphere, are the perfect antidotes to a day spent among the hordes at stadiums and major tourist sights. And as properties independent of an internationally recognized chain, they still offer Olympics availability for those in the know. I recommend the Far East International Youth Hostel for hotel-like amenities at deep discounts. Just a 20-minute walk from Tiananmen Square, the alleyways around the hostel seem far away from the massive plaza and tourist hub. The family-owned Red Lantern House also gets high marks for its friendly hutong hospitality.
3. Avoid crowded hotels altogether with a homestay
Connect with a host family for the most authentic visit around—you might even make friends for life. Travelers who regularly stay with local families while abroad (I’ve done it once to great success, in France) report that there’s no better way to experience a city. Tour-Beijing’s website is one where you can browse families willing to host visitors, while the Homestay Beijing 2008 site allows you to rent a home sans its inhabitants.
4. Embrace the capital’s public transportation
It’s safe, fast, easy, and cheap—and a window into daily life in China’s capital. A subway ride costs only 3 yuan, and the system is fairly small, so while not convenient to everywhere you’re going, it’s at least easy to navigate.
Buses, on the other hand, go almost everywhere in and around the city. The sheer number of them makes the routes confusing at first, but once you figure out what bus number you need, signs are plentiful and buses well marked.
5. Pack a sense of adventure—and your own tissues
Beijing is never boring, including when it’s time for a bathroom break. You’ll come across a Western toilet every once in a while, but more often than not, public restrooms consist of a squatting hole (sometimes with markers as guidelines for your feet) and sinks shared with the men’s toilets. Toilet paper is rare. But all in all, the challenge was minimal. I only ran screaming out of one bathroom over the course of 10 days.
6. Get a proper introduction to the city at the Temple of Heaven
Marvel at the complex’s Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests in person, before you start seeing it on every postcard and T-shirt for the rest of your stay. The scale of the temple (which is known in Chinese as Tiantan) gives you a sense of what to expect in Beijing, and it’s typically not as overwhelmingly crowded as other sites. It’s laid out over a big enough area that you can find a tree under which to duck and listen to the locals who are out singing or playing the flute.
7. Seek out your Great Wall
There are many segments to choose from, but the right one for you depends on the type of traveler you are. I appreciated the desertedness and challenging inclines of Jin Shan Ling and Si Ma Tai, but many people would be less than crazy about the 3 hours it took to get there—in the back of an un-air-conditioned, swerving van. Badaling is closer to the city, but more heavily touristed and boasting less original parts. An hour from Beijing, Mu Tian Yu could be a good compromise—but it all depends on what you’re looking for and can fit into your busy Olympic schedule.
8. Enjoy at least one Peking Duck meal
The tradition involved in preparing the dish is fascinating, and the end result is delectable. My top choice for dinner has to be the ever-popular Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant, which has several locations around the city. But Li Qun Roast Duck Restaurant has its legions of fans as well. At either restaurant, a crispy-tender duck arrives with pancakes, green onions, plum sauce—and its head. As you savor the dish, you’re awarded a certificate stamped with the number duck you’ve eaten. A feast and a souvenir for a small price is hard to beat.
9. Take a breather from the city at the Summer Palace
Despite Beijing’s traffic and factory-emission curbs during the 2008 Olympics, it’s summer in the city: Beijing will be hot and smoggy. Escape the heat at the nearby Summer Palace. The grounds (and playgrounds) of Empress Dowager Cixi boast a large lake and wooded areas for relaxing. Other curiosities include her famous marble boat, a must-see.
10. Save some energy for Beijing by night
Nightlife is wild in Beijing; head to areas like Houhai or Sanlitun to see and be seen while executing floor-shaking dance moves, or visit Tiananmen Square for a different kind of after-dark spectacle: a square awash in the glow of thousands of twinkling lights. What can seem oppressively barren by day becomes magical when the sun goes down. Meanwhile, clubs like The World of Suzie Wong make you wonder how anyone can think of the Chinese as regimented or reserved.
11. End your visit with the most affordable massage of your life
Prep for the long plane ride home with some pampering. Salons are ubiquitous; just follow locals to one that catches your eye. For mere dollars, you can choose from foot, leg, or full-body massages in rooms by yourself or with friends. What better way to reward yourself for an intense vacation full of walking, navigating, and, most importantly, supporting your Olympic team?
February 29, 2008