Feel like going to Hell today? Hell, Michigan, that is---a town about 20 miles outside of Ann Arbor, whose ice cream parlor welcomes visitors with flavors like "scaramel" and "buttersnot." No? Too much for you? Well, what about Half Hell, North Carolina?That shouldn't be quite so full of fire and brimstone.

If there's ever a day to pay homage to a town with a spooky name---and trust me, there are plenty; in fact there's probably one just a few hours' drive from wherever you are---Halloween would be the day. What about Devil Town, Ohio? Devil's Backbone, Connecticut? Or how about visiting another part of the devil's anatomy entirely and heading up to Devil's Elbow in California's Colusa county? And for something a little different, there's always Satan's Kingdom, Vermont.

It doesn't stop there, of course. You might want to check out Black Cat, Arkansas; Spook City, Colorado; or Tombstone, Arizona. Then there's the evocative Bat Cave, North Carolina; Spiderweb, South Carolina; Goblintown, Virginia; and plain old Scary, West Virginia, who really have the concept of "plain and simple" down pat.

No fewer than 15 towns across the country---from California to South Dakota to Louisiana to Florida---are proud owners of the moniker Pumpkin Center; and then there's Pumpkin Bend, Arkansas; Pumpkin Hollow, New York; and plain old Pumpkin, Texas.

No matter what atrocities you see on Halloween, don't make a sound in Screamer, Alabama; Yell, Tennessee; or Holler, Maryland. That's assuming, of course, that you don't pass through Blood, New Hampshire; Skull Creek, Wyoming; or Slaughter Beach, Delaware on your way there. To round out your road trip of horror, check out Dead Man's Crossing, Indiana---but please be an equal-opportunity traveler and stop in at Dead Women's Crossing, Oklahoma, as well.

As for me? Well, just take me to Candy Town, Ohio. I think I'll do my trick-or-treating there.

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This weekend, as wildfires raged across the southern half of California and Governor Schwarzenegger channeled The Terminator to warn all arsonists that he will “hunt them down,” I fled to the east and atop the jack-o-lantern laden Sierra Nevada mountains for my annual “girls weekend” at Lake Tahoe.

Now put your frozen-bra and pillow-fight illusions aside. This fall tradition began about five years ago, when we didn’t even know it was going to be a tradition, just a generous invitation to a friend’s family cabin in the woods with views of the lake, mountains, pink-valentine sunsets, and a woo-hooo witchy-woman moon glowing through the giant glass windows.

Photo: One of the Angora Lakes before this year’s fire.

From the start, what emerged were weekends filled with wine and words, sunshine-dappled hikes on mountain paths carpeted in golden aspen leaves, lazy mornings by the fire, and lavish home-cooked feasts. Over the years, we’ve used this weekend to catch up and reset. For some of us, it’s the only time we get to see each other. We speak of politics and religion and relationships and our creative passions, and--lest I give the wrong impression that we’re all so super serious--whether Ben Affleck is that handsome and what really was the deal with Padma and Salman?

On hikes, we greet every dog on the trail with a big hello. We coo at every chipmunk. We exclaim with a nervous thrill over the sighting of a far-enough-away bear. This Saturday, at Spooner Lake, we waved hello to a fisherman casting his line with his cat companion by his side. The cat was on a leash, and sat upon a large granite boulder staring up at us just like he was the little kitty king of the forest.

Throughout the weekend, I wondered about the wildfires. While quiet now, the Lake Tahoe region also had to battle big blazes this year. This summer, the Angora fire burned for eight days straight creating an estimated $150 million in losses. I noticed some evidence of these fires during my trip, but was also amazed at how quick the rebuilding and renewal process is.

My thoughts are with those in southern California who have been impacted, and my hope is that the brave men and women who are putting their lives on the line to get these fires under control will be able to get out of the danger zone soon. In the meantime, whether it’s a girls weekend or a family trip, do you have any annual travel traditions that you’d like to share?

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Reading the New York Times travel section this weekend made me yearn for a quick getaway to someplace sunny and warm. Or at least someplace that felt better than here (New York City aka The Big Apple.) Usually I just love fall but it has been a bit of a disappointing fall this year, you know, with the wacky weather and the leaves not quite performing as we’d like all like. Although the air has only just turned chilly this passed week I’m already thinking about what’s next on my travel horizon…

The New York Times seemed to be leaning toward the Caribbean and the call of the warm blue waters. The section was dominated by an opening with a fruity umbrella topped cooler and the allure of soft, sandy beaches. They’re clearly not the only ones with some beach-time on their mind. Maybe it’s a result of the increased access with new flights to the Caribbean but I’ve looked at the data for thanksgiving and noticed that the share of travel to the Caribbean is up 20% this Thanksgiving. Thanksgiving? you ask. Sure thing. It’s trendy to take turkey abroad. Mexico’s share is up by 17%. Even Europe’s is up too. (And I thought the whole Western Hemisphere Passport Initiative and the new passport rules combined with the weak dollar was supposed to be deterring people from traveling? Well apparently not.) What’s more is that these people aren’t like me and thinking I need a little break, uh, now! They’re booking in advance. WAY in advance. The average domestic ticket for thanksgiving this year was booked 85 days prior to departure, international tickets were booked over 100 days in advance. Given that math, that means right now I should be booking for sometime in January possibly more like February.

January, February. Weren’t we just talking about Thanksgiving?

Yes. And we were. Thanksgiving is going to be here before we even know it – and there are going to be a lot of people traveling. So if you haven’t bought your ticket for thanksgiving you’re going to pay for that big time. (Hint: You might want to postpone the dinner and travel the week immediately after thanksgiving when things are cheaper. I know that's not so convenient that's why it's true.)

But if you’re still like me and feeling that you require a proper vacation, well then for that the best bet is to plan. (What just happened here, does it sound like I’m starting to talk to myself?) So back to January. I’m not entirely sure where (Belize, Bonnaire, Bermuda) but I do see the Beach in my near future and I’m going to book it. Quick!

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I remember the first time I went to Guerneville. I was young, naive, and--perhaps most relevantly--freshly out of the closet. After a month-long road trip up to Washington and Canada, my then-girlfriend Amanda and I were hauling back down to our home turf in Los Angeles. We drove through thousands of miles of unknown, un-gay terrain. Amanda peeled the rainbow sticker off the bumper of her Saturn, and we both sunk low into our seats and tried to look less gay.

It was in this manner that the two of us rolled up to a quaint but otherwise nondescript town on the banks of Northern California’s Russian River. Needing a quick pick-me-up, we stopped at a café--and, lo and behold, we started seeing gay people. Lots of them. Everywhere. We saw multicolored rainbow flags, bear flags, and even risqué leather pride flags. Naughty, naughty, naughty! Where were we?

Turns out we had stumbled upon Guerneville, a gay-friendly vacation spot just 70 miles north of San Francisco. Although Amanda and I had no idea we were so close to the Bay Area (often lovingly, and somewhat appropriately, called the “Gay Area”), most San Franciscans, gay or not, are somewhat acquainted with the area. The Guerneville Visitor & Business Directory has an extensive “Gay Travel” section on their site, and you’d be hard-pressed to find anyone of the gay, lesbian, bisexual, or transgender persuasion in San Francisco who hasn’t visited--or at least thought of visiting--this charming gay getaway at least once.

If you’re straight, though, never fear--Guerneville also serves up plenty of fun for everyone, regardless of your orientation. Things to do in or around Guerneville include hiking in the scenic Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve, whale watching, hot air ballooning, and visiting the Hallberg Butterfly Gardens. That’s if you’re not too busy swimming or kayaking in the river, checking out the local bars and cafés, or taking a leisurely stroll down Guerneville’s main street. Guerneville is also in Russian River Wine Country, so there are plenty of wine tasting opportunities in the area as well.

I’ll be heading out to Guerneville tonight to celebrate my anniversary with my partner, Julia. Seven years after my first Guerneville experience, I can’t think of a better way to say “I’m happy to be gay”!

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I'm sure I'm not the only one for whom watching Dirty Dancing for the first time was something of a seminal moment. Who could forget Baby's klutzy insecurity, Johnny's smoldering good looks, the goosebump-inducing finale, and immortal lines like "I carried a watermelon"?

Well, apparently not the Mountain Lake Hotel, where much of the movie's scenes took place back when it was filmed in 1987. To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the much-loved classic (I know, it makes me feel ancient too!), the Virginia hotel is hosting a special Dirty Dancing package, complete with a trivia night (which I feel confident I could rock) and special group dancing lessons.

If you're a real hardcore fan, though, you might want to make the trek to Lake Lure, North Carolina, where the infamous water lift was performed (as well as the log walk---remember that?) At the Lake Lure Inn, the movie is constantly on repeat in the lobby and the gift shop sells Dirty Dancing ephemera. Even better? You can stay in one of four themed suites, whose names include Johnny's Cabin and Baby's Bungalow.

Don't even tempt me, is all I can say. I can re-enact a dance number like nobody's business.

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According to the San Diego Convention & Visitors Bureau, all major San Diego attractions – SeaWorld San Diego, LEGOLAND California, the San Diego Zoo and San Diego Zoo’s Wild Animal Park - are open to the public. San Diego International Airport has been in operation throughout the wildfires, and all major freeways are open and flowing well.

Though the San Diego International Airport and John Wayne Airport (Orange County) remain open, travelers with immediate plans to visit Southern California can take advantage of airline policies to waive change fees to these and other area airports. Keep in mind policies vary, and in some cases travelers must commence their trips by November 1. Here, a list of airlines that have adjusted policies in the wake of the fires:

Alaska Airlines
American Airlines
ATA
Continental Airlines
Delta
Frontier Airlines
JetBlue
United Airlines
Northwest Airlines
US Airways
Qantas

Travelocity customers should check the Customer Care page for more information related to their trips.

Travelocity has received information on closures at the following hotels in Southern California, but we advise travelers to check with individual properties to confirm status.

Lake Arrowhead Resort
Pala Mesa Resort
Inn at Rancho Santa Fe
Morgan Run

Travelers to Southern California may run into issues at hotel check in, as some evacuees have chosen hotels over area shelters. Road closures may complicate getting to your destination from the airport; the California Department of Transportation has up-to-date information regarding road closures.

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Not too long ago, I won a gift certificate for a last-minute weekend getaway. Problem is, the dollar amount that I won stretches about as far as…Pittsburgh, PA. Or, if I go during off season, I may be able to swing exotic Topeka, KS!

As I started researching my options, I was reminded of an acquaintance’s ongoing tour of America’s underappreciated cities. Once a year, he meets his buddies in a second- or third-tier city that tourists may not clamor to visit: think Bangor, Cleveland, Raleigh. Kansas City was apparently a big hit.

Cleveland photo courtesy of IgoUgo member RoBoNC

Why is it that the rest of us don’t seek out these hidden gems more often? Underrated cities are generally cheaper and less crowded, but often offer world-class art and cuisine. They also seem particularly suited for last-minute travel, seeing as how there's bound to be one near you. I’m partial to Manchester, NH, and Athens, GA, and all you doubters would agree after one look at Manchester during campaign season or one stop in Athens for a football game. I’m also always telling people to visit Providence and Salt Lake City (as far as I know, nobody has followed this advice).

By capitalizing on tourists fed up with, well, capitals, smaller markets are getting smart about courting visitors. Locally, some tourism offices are helping bloggers get the word out by subsidizing their costs; USA Today points to the Milwaukee-centric Play in the City blog as a recent example of this win-win deal.

On the national level, NBC’s Today Show joins the trend of promoting unusual hotspots this fall with its four-part What’s Great About…? series. First up: Houston and Minneapolis. Judging by the segments, it looks like exploring Houston’s Museum District or biking Minneapolis’ lakeside paths would be great ways to spend weekends. I’d also like to browse the unique boutiques of Columbus, OH, a city that seems to have undergone a “transformation” dramatic enough to catch the attention of the glossy New York Times T Magazine.

But what’s your favorite underappreciated US city? I have a free ticket, and I’d like to know!

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There’s something about October. Though I love the triumphant blooming of spring, the snowy days of winter, and the heated energy of summer (provided the heat index is below 90), it’s the slow unfurling of fall that unleashes this little current of bliss in me. As green turns to a kaleidoscope of gold and crimson; the air turns chilly and crisp; and Duane Reade stocks its annual mishmash of Halloween candy, rubber spiders, and superhero masks, I start doing all sorts of ridiculous things, like sighing dramatically (and audibly) at the autumn sunshine; exclaiming 45 times a day to whomever will listen that I love this weather; going for long walks from which I return with a collection of beautiful fallen leaves that I have no idea what to do with; baking. October is my golden hour.

It may have something to do with having grown up on the rural Texas plains, where fall foliage was a mythical image and October had more to do with high school football and elaborate hell houses put on by local church groups. Now that I live in New York, within day-tripping distance of New England’s spectacular leaf displays, apple orchards, and U-Pick pumpkin patches, I approach fall like a relay racer waiting for the baton pass, ready to seize my moment in the sun.

Weekends, then, are an autumn extravaganza for me, even in the face of this year’s unseasonably warm temperatures and fitful rains. I become an avid day-tripper, averse to being indoors (except, of course, when I’m baking). After 8 years on the East Coast, I’ve got it down to a fine art. As a nod to my favorite month, I give you my top five day trips (in no particular order) for falling in love with fall:

1. Apple-Picking
No matter where you are on the East Coast, there’s bound to be an orchard within reach. My favorites are Terhune Orchards in Princeton, New Jersey, which also boasts family-friendly activities like pony rides and a corn stalk maze (bonus: tour Princeton University’s campus, which becomes even more postcard-ready than usual as the leaves fall), and Applewood Orchards & Winery in Warwick, New York, where apple-picking and wine-tasting are set against stunning Hudson Valley vistas. Be prepared to return home with far too many apples. Warn your friends and coworkers of the impending apple windfall.

2. Haunted Hayrides
This is always a tough sell among my friends, but I’ve never taken anyone on a haunted hayride who didn’t love it. And what’s not to love: you pile onto a flatbed trailer padded with hay and roll through the woods, usually accompanied by a gaggle of local high school students and young couples, and enjoy hilariously recreated horror movie scenes along the way. Afterward, there’s usually warm cider and donuts. The vibe is campy, not scary, mostly thanks to the motley crew of actors who put on the show night after night (my favorite experience was taking the last ride of the night one year, after which I watched Michael Myers, Dracula, and a coven of witches come off their shifts for a cigarette break).

3. Hiking
Yes, the nights are chilly for camping, but autumn is the perfect time to hike. Temperatures are more forgiving, the trails are less crowded, and the lookout points yield jaw-dropping expanses of hills streaked with fall colors. I spent a recent weekend at Malouf’s Mountain in Beacon, New York, a hike-in, hike-out camp with hot showers, fully outfitted camping platforms, and the almost-cheating-but-too-convenient-to-feel-badly-about-it perk of dropping off your overnight bags with a camp manager upon arrival; they’ll be waiting for you when you finish your hike. Roasting marshmallows over a campfire in the brisk autumn air was almost too wonderful for words. Almost.

4. Fall Foliage Viewing
I refuse to use the term “leaf-peeping,” but feel free to substitute it if you prefer. When you live in New York without a car, there are few pleasures greater than renting a car and going for an autumn drive, but a cheaper (and equally thrilling) option is New York Water Taxi’s Fall Foliage cruise. Sail through the stunning Palisades, sip cider (the obligatory beverage on any of these fall excursions…rum optional), and congratulate yourself for your impressive foresight in purchasing the 2GB memory card for your digital camera. There’s no nicer way to spend an October afternoon in the city. If you’re really cheap, a long day in Central Park (picnic required) comes close.

5. Cozying up at a B&B
If there was ever a marriage between a season and an accommodation type, autumn and the B&B would live happily ever after. There’s something especially romantic about sneaking away to spend sunny, brisk days outdoors (whether your yen is antiquing or canoeing) and curl up for quiet evenings chilly enough to bring the fireplace to life. The best part? An escape like this can be combined with any of the preceding picks. And you don’t have to be coupled to enjoy it: B&B getaways make surprisingly fun girls’ weekends or even mini-vacations for the family. The point is to escape, relax, and let someone else do the baking for you.

As the leaves continue to fall, laying out a jewel-toned carpet for the approach of winter, where will you go? I’m always looking for new ways to bring out that special something that October holds.

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Earlier this week, over lunch with a few journalists and resort executives, one of the hot topics for discussion was customer service as it relates to the airline industry. Not a new topic, for sure (in fact I’ve written about it a few times here), but one that continues to resonate. While we alternately shared horror stories and opinions on what we thought needed to happen to improve customer service, USA Today had just published a story on this very topic in that morning’s paper.

The very next day, several airlines reported their third-quarter earnings. Despite the level of dissatisfaction among passengers, the airlines are doing just fine, thank you. Continental Airlines reported a net profit of $241 million; Southwest, $162 million; and Delta, $220 million; to name a few.

How is this possible? Well, as the aforementioned USA Today customer service piece points out, deep cuts were needed to stay in business. After all, it was a just a few years ago that several major carriers were operating under bankruptcy protection. According to the USA Today piece, “It’s just not a business wired for pleasing customers in the way that, for example, retailer Nordstrom is.” Why? Because customers really don’t have another choice if they want to continue to travel long distances. And since the airlines are posting profits, where’s the incentive?

It isn’t all gloom and doom. Certain carriers are making (baby) steps in the right direction. American Airlines will leave middle seats on many key routes unsold this holiday season to better accommodate passengers bumped off flights, and Northwest Airlines will provide “intensive” customer training to flight attendants and gate agents, among other employees. At the same time, JetBlue and United promise compensation to passengers stuck on grounded flights for more than a certain number of hours.

My question to you: knowing now that certain carriers are trying to alleviate some of the customer service problems we’ve seen recently, are you more likely to choose one of these airlines the next time you book a flight? Why or why not?

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This time of year I’ve got the white stuff on the brain. No, no. Not the Hollywood starlet kind of white stuff—I mean snow, of course. And so I begin to convince (some might say coerce) my friends to take a big ski trip with me.

But in every group there are always a few non-skiers. These poor souls get dragged to the mountain year after year by ski bums who care more about the inches of fresh powder than the amenities. This ski season, to tempt my favorite non-skiing compatriots, I looked up the best on-the-mountain bars. These watering holes are destinations unto their own, affording unmatched alpine views and elixirs to keep you toasty, and all are accessible without skis.

Photo courtesy of IgoUgo member captain oddsocks.

If you’ve got someone you want to lure to the peaks, entice them with this list.

Best Places to Roast by the Fire

Blue Moon Restaurant & Bar at Eagle’s Nest, Vail Resort - Vail, Colorado
Hop the toasty gondola to the top of Vail Mountain and spend the day tucked in with a good book at this laidback bar. Or warm up with some spiked hot cocoa and then grab snowshoes at nearby Adventure Ridge.

Garibaldi Lift Co., Whistler Blackcomb - Whistler, British Columbia
This “lift company” offers just the boost you need. With a roaring fire, live bands, a mountain-facing patio, and a singles scene, “the GLC” is the place for those who came to conquer the mountain without skis.

Gunbarrel Grill at Lakeview Lodge, Heavenly Mountain Resort - Lake Tahoe, California
The Aerial Tramway deposits you at this bar boasting fine brews and amazing lake views. And no one needs extra convincing to take advantage of the “best happy hour in Tahoe” with free chips and salsa and $1 off all drinks.

Seven Glacier’s Lounge, Alyeska Resort - Alyeska, Alaska
Take the tram up 2,300 feet and behold what Condé Nast Traveler called the best view of any U.S. ski resort. You’ll be able to spy seven "hanging" glaciers and the Chugach Mountain Range at the refined Seven Glacier’s Lounge.

Troll Hallen Lounge at Stein Eriksen Lodge, Deer Valley Resort - Park City, Utah
Looking for a little alpine peace and quiet? This serene lounge nestled around a blazing hearth is the ultimate place to unwind. Order the expertly mixed martini and don’t forget to marvel at the stunning peaks all around.

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Breakfast at Tartine in San Francisco’s Mission District is a journey--its flaky pastries and café au lait transport you to Paris the instant they touch your lips. On a foggy morning, I met there over the most beautiful and butterscotch-ey bread pudding to be regaled by travel tales and discuss this winter’s hottest food trends with Jen Catto, Travel Director of Gourmet Magazine.

Jen had recently returned from a trip to France in which she tried something she never had before. On the beaches of Brittany at this time of year, large amounts of algae wash up onto shore. It used to be that this algae was only used for bath salts, but local restaurants in St. Malo made the algae into a butter and then used this butter to prepare fish. The aromatic and briney taste that resulted is something that could only come from that particular region, anchoring the dining experience firmly and wonderfully in France at that season and place.

Photo courtesy of Jen Catto.

Be on the lookout for these kinds of dining experiences that you can find nowhere else, Jen says, and remember that foods that we might consider weird back home can be a routine and delicious part of the menu elsewhere. “Sea urchin,” she said, “might seem a little strange. But if you grow up eating sea urchin then it’s just a part of your diet. It’s all relative,” and the traveler who tries these foods this winter takes a step further toward truly entering into the local scene.

In between bites of savory olive-cheese bread, Jen explained to me that this season, the big buzzword is local. Both the Fairmont and IHG hotel chains have made a commitment to honoring locally sourced foods in their kitchens and supporting a greener lifestyle. Not only does serving local foods eliminate the need to waste resources on shipping in products from far away, but it also means a more immersive and authentic food experience for hotel guests, with the added benefit of funneling money to local farmers.

China, for example, with its fast-growing economy, is really opening up to Gourmet readers as a foodie destination. More and more high-end and luxury tours are becoming available to help travelers with the logistics of navigating the country, reflecting the traveler’s desire to drill deeper into Chinese culture by exploring its food. On a winter tour, this can translate into learning how to make noodles in Szechuan, or being taught how to distinguish between the subtle varieties of black tea in Beijing.

On the domestic front, Jen says ski resorts will continue the trend of beefing up their restaurants by bringing in top chefs from restaurants around the country. It used to be that ski resorts like Beaver Creek and Whistler were only known for their comfort foods, but now you’re just as likely schuss down the mountain to a meal as memorable as any you’d find in New York City or Las Vegas. Plus, on the après-ski scene, some mixologists (aka bartenders) are starting to reach celebrity status, so after a day at play in a winter wonderland, expect to see some unusual takes on warming classics like the hot toddy.

When you travel this winter, are there any foods that you’re particularly looking forward to, that you can’t get anywhere or anytime else?

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Posted in Culinary Travel, Holiday & Seasonal, LSBF '07, Travel News
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With two levels of passenger seating, the new Airbus A380 super jet is bigger than anything we civilians have seen yet. Yesterday, Airbus officially delivered its first A380 to Singapore Airlines.

A typical A380 with three cabin classes accommodates a whopping 525 passengers. Take out the first and business classes and make the plane all economy, and that number of passengers soars to over 800 (imagine that boarding process!). By 2011, this plane will be able to take off and land in 70 airports around the world.

Photo courtesy of IgoUgo member alancf.

Singapore Airlines configured its cabins to accommodate a mere 471 passengers, due largely in part to its super swank luxury suites. This new luxury class puts privacy at an almost prohibitive premium, but if you’ve got the dough to blow you get a flat-screen TV and a full-length bed with French designer sheets that can convert to a fully functional office. Apparently, couples can join two suites and beds together (mile-high club, anyone?).

Those in economy will each have an entertainment system with over 100 films, TV shows, and games to choose from. Not too shabby--although economy class passengers miss out on the bars reserved for the higher paying guests. Yes, there will be bars that you can stand around and drink at like a normal person on the ground. How civilized!

Singapore Airlines’ first commercial flight will be from Singapore to Sydney, and takes off on October 28. Plenty of other airlines are signed up for A380s deliveries over the next year, and I, for one, can’t wait to see what other amenities the different airlines will come up with as far as cabin configuration is concerned.

Among the wishlist items I’ve seen tossed around are fitness centers, restaurants, beauty salons, casinos, and showers, all of which are making the prospect of flying more and more like being on a cruise ship. If this is the future of air travel, what wishlist innovations would you prefer to see in the skies?

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According to the Los Angeles Times, lost luggage may be a thing of the past. A new technology, already in use at Hong Kong International Airport and McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas, promises a most efficient way to track bags separated from their owners.

Radio Frequency Identification, or RFID, uses a passive radio transponder embedded in a luggage tag that's put on your bag at check-in to track your bags. Other airports are looking into implementing RFID, though it's unlikely any will do so before the busy holiday season, when an increase in air travelers means an increase in mishandled luggage.

The current system, which uses bar codes, is imperfect, as any of the thousands of passengers who lost their bags last summer can attest to. According to the Bureau of Transportation Statistics, nearly 8% of luggage was mishandled this past August -- down slightly from the previous August, but no consolation to anyone who spent three days in the same underwear.

If you're not traveling through Las Vegas or Hong Kong this holiday season -- or, even if you are -- follow these three tips and chances are high you bags will end their journey in the same destination and on the same plane as you.

1. Fly direct. Every connection increases the chances your luggage won't make it on your flight.

2. Arrive early. Getting to the airport with plenty of time to spare ensures airline personnel will have enough time to get your bags on the plane.

3. Leave time for connections. If you can't fly direct (see tip #1), leaving plenty of time for connections means you and your bags will have no problem getting on the next leg of your flight.

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As a seasoned San Franciscan, I can tell you a lot about the Golden Gate Bridge. I can also talk your ears off on the subjects of crooked Lombard Street, funky Haight-Ashbury, our fleet of highly polished retro-chic cable cars, or even eccentric local legends Emperor Norton and Frank Chu.

My grasp of San Francisco lore unravels, though, once the subject turns toward the city’s spookier aspects (excepting, of course, the infamous Zodiac Killer. He’s got his own blockbuster film, after all). Otherwise, I don’t know much about the haunted parts of the Bay Area. Ghosts, ghouls, and graveyards--this fascinating side of the city always seem to come alive as Halloween approaches at this dark time of year.

Photo courtesy of IgoUgo member kona.

It’s fortunate, then, that ghost-hunting hobbyist Jeff Dwyer has put together The Ghost Hunter’s Guide to the San Francisco Bay Area. For those of us who have never hunted ghosts before, Dwyer spells out the process on his website. Unlike many modern “technical” ghost hunters, Dwyer uses his innate “psychic” abilities to feel out the presence of a ghost. He visits a given location either in person or remotely through psychic vibes, and then reports on his findings. Using this method, Dwyer has mapped out a slew of haunted locales in his Bay Area home base, as well as in Los Angeles, New Orleans, and (coming soon) Wine Country and Seattle.

Whether you’re a dedicated paranormal buff or simply looking for a quirky take on your next out-of-town excursion, it might be worth it to check out Dwyer’s books, or others like them. And if you want to meet the author in person, Jeff Dwyer is available for book signing tomorrow, October 13, at 1pm at Acres of Books in San Francisco, at 5pm at Under the Bridge in San Jose, and again on October 27 at California’s eccentric Winchester Mystery House.

Have you ever encountered a haunted locale in your travels? If so, were you spooked?

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Posted in California, Educational & Historic, Entertainment, Family & Kids, Festivals & Events, Holiday & Seasonal, Louisiana, New Orleans, San Francisco
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Benjamin Franklin once said: “Guests, like fish, begin to smell after three days." Granted, this is the same man who wanted the turkey to be our national bird and who nearly electrocuted himself with a kite, but he had a point.

I traveled to Manhattan last week, where a friend graciously let me be a couch commando for six straight days. This arrangement saved me roughly $2,400 (or 240 Benjamins), a figure that weighed heavily on my mind. I lived in New York for four years and I know first-hand how your sofa can develop a revolving door, and how all your obscure aunts, uncles, and half-cousins show up claiming kinship. So I learned a thing or two about what not to do when staying with someone.

Photo courtesy of IgoUgo member vondrejech

Inconsiderate company should know better. The Internet is littered with advice on this topic. Wikihow breaks house guest etiquette down into the nitty gritty details, while Good Housekeeping reminds you of the basics. Even Ask Men did their own spin on it, concluding that no “bro” anywhere in the world has an excuse for leaving the toilet seat up. And yet, despite all this free advice, I’ve hosted thoughtless visitors time and time again.

That’s why for this week’s Speak Up I want to know your house guest horror stories and your rules for visiting friends and family.

Here are my top five sacred laws of visitors, amassed from assorted horror stories.

1) Don’t call from the airport and “surprise” your host with your visit.

2) When your host says she’s tired and going home for the night, you go with her. Don’t respond, “I’ll see you later.” She’s not running a hotel.

3) Don’t call your host at work all day long with questions like, “Now where is the Banana Republic again”? (There are 12 in Manhattan alone.)

4) You shower after your host. You’re on vacation! She’s got a boss with a watch…

5) Don’t visit on New Year’s Eve, Halloween, and Valentine’s Day. Your host has plans.

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Posted in Budget Travel, Hotel Travel
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One need not look too hard to find some article declaring the impotence of the American educational system in teaching any semblance of geography to its students. In grade school, we had a relatively rigorous geography class which included anything from being able to draw and label every African country on a blank outline of the continent—and include capital cities—to knowing what was the most susceptible country to cyclones and what its main export was. The answer was Bangladesh, and jute. I never thought I’d have much use for the info. Well, to be honest, aside from being able to say “jute” more than I thought I ever would, I don’t. However, I thought I was fairly well-versed in the world, able to identify my place, and the place of other places, within it.

This was all before the translation service agency Lingo24 came into my life. On the site, they have an “educational game” where you are challenged to place a European country within the confines of the entire western part of the Eurasian continent. Easy, right? Well, unless you ask for a hint, you are only supplied with the top-level domain of the country. Fine for places like “.it” and even “.de,” but not so great for “.ee.” Without cheating, go ahead and give it a whirl. The game is fun, with some cool features like average and total error distance, measured in kilometers. It is also ultimately humiliating, like when you forget about Iceland, and drop it in the middle of the former Soviet Bloc while your average error distance takes off like an ICBM. My first score was 144, then 150, and 189. I showed the game to some nameless coworkers and other highly intelligent acquaintances. Whether or not they scored lower, I'm not sure I feel any better about myself, or for the world in general. The game changes the order, so it helps when you get Spain, then UK, then Russia. However, when you start with Lithuania, Andorra, and say, Macedonia a.k.a. FYROM, you may run into some trouble.

It doesn’t end here. There are some other ways to test your knowledge/waste your time. This particular test is a slightly different approach, but equally embarrassing when I forgot Egypt on the African map. I could claim that with the many changes in African borders over my lifetime that I was susceptible to confusion. Egypt, however, has existed for so long, they’ve been brewing beer for over 6,000 years. The changing face of the world—the face we have given it anyway—is evident in this little vignette, a favorite of mine from when I was young. Some standout problems: “Both Yemens,” “Kampuchea,” “Dahomey,” the always-controversial “Burma,” and the fact that "Russia" still includes a Hungry Man portion of Eurasia. Regardless, it's a brilliant song.

This obsession with knowing—or really, not knowing—geography is fairly pervasive. Even FOX TV has picked up on the egregious and overarching ignorance. Someone needs to tell them about the glass house they’re living in. Also, I know these things are usually edited to maximize effect, but this is something I saw while living abroad just after the invasion of Iraq. Startling, and a little disturbing, if it’s accurate. While being able to identify Moravia by its outline may elude me, the best way to familiarize oneself with any place in the world is to read up and go there. Anyway, I’m taking baby steps: I was happy with my 189. How did you do?

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Posted in Educational & Historic, Polls & Studies
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I have an image burned in my mind that may haunt me for years to come, and that is of my parents bopping to Ludacris.

That view eclipsed the foliage this weekend as the three of us drove to New Hampshire for a visit with family. Traveling with the folks as an adult can be rewarding (and, clearly, eye-opening): besides the rapping incident, I rekindled my appreciation of American history after my dad, a self-styled Ben Franklin expert, led me on a Philadelphia walking tour last year. And from my mom, there is my appreciation of girls’ weekends and good deals from when the two of us would steal away to the Blue Ridge Mountains for some relaxed antiquing without Dad to speed us along.

But traveling with your parents—especially when it involves 12 car hours in 2 days—isn’t a cakewalk, and there will be moments when your rebellious teenage years start to seem well-reasoned. Over the past few years, though, I’ve learned some tips that keep challenging moments to a minimum and your adolescence at bay.

Photo courtesy of IgoUgo member BawBaw

1. Plan your itinerary/route/stops ahead of time: I’m convinced this strategy circumvents 99% of arguments. At the very least, it allows you to start and end arguments before you ever hit the road. I adore fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants travel with friends, but this style doesn’t mesh well with a family dynamic.

2. Don’t underestimate the power of music or other distractions: I would never think of setting out on a road trip with friends unless we had a soundtrack in mind, but 5 minutes into this trip with my parents, I discovered they hadn’t packed any CDs for the hours of radio-less mountain driving. Faced with 6 hours of uninterrupted conversation in a confined space, I managed to beat my faulty iPod transmitter into submission, and, well, you know the rest. Mom and Dad rocked out to Luda, and all was well (if a little wacky) with the world.

3. Go with the flow: Parents are more set in their ways than their children—even their adult children—so follow their lead. This includes waking at the crack of dawn, indulging requests from backseat drivers, handling all technological problems, and generally agreeing with everything they say. Voice your opinion when you get home; now’s the time to sit back and enjoy the ride.

With a few trips and these tips under my belt, I’m able to truly appreciate the privilege and joys of traveling with the 'rents—in fact, this parent-adult child dynamic is beginning to feel old hat, indeed.

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Posted in Car Travel, Family & Kids
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When you work in travel, you think about your next trip in the way they say men think about sex. You find yourself all too often in that dreamy, conceptual state when you imagine where your next trip might be, when it might happen, and how you’ll feel when you get there. You float from place to place in your daydreams, read long-form travel journalism, meditate on the filming locations of every movie you see, and admire that friend-of-a-friend’s latest set of Flickr photos from some far-flung place. So when an acquaintance recently departed on a multi-year traveling spree—just weeks after I’d finished reading Eat, Pray, Love, the summer bestseller about a writer who spends a year in Italy, India, and Bali—I began to seek an outlet for my constant state of wanderlust.

Photo courtesy of IgoUgo member meadlowlark

With a new document open in front of me, I prowled the map for the five countries I would include on my fantasy year-long trip around the world. It was more difficult than I expected: some countries on my must-see list were clustered in close proximity, making them better candidates for a separate, multi-month regional trip (Southeast Asia, for example, or Scandinavia). I also had to spread my choices across the globe, singling out destinations that would take me on a literal path around the world. If only to make the job easier, I narrowed the list to countries I have not yet visited. After much pondering and inner turmoil, I settled on my five (in no particular order):

1. Argentina, for its wildly varied landscapes, excellent food, the siren call of Buenos Aires, and my lingering wish to make something of all those years of high school Spanish

2. South Africa, also for its diverse landscapes, unique culture, the awe-inspiring sight of Cape Point, and my lingering wish to someday discover that I’m really a natural at surfing

3. Spain, for its storied cuisine, smattering of dynamic cities, wow-they’ve-really-got-the-right-idea siesta culture, and—you guessed it—my lingering wish to make something of all those years of high school Spanish

4. Greece, to see those stark-white-on-deep-blue landscapes in person, to drink ouzo in a setting where ouzo isn’t ridiculous, to eat lamb roasted over a spit, and to relish the gloriously romantic idea that I’m traveling through the land of Odysseus

5. Japan, for its gorgeous landscapes, the have-to-see-it-before-you-die draw of Tokyo, and the prospect of a fairytale train journey across the country, but really for its singular food culture (I'd plan to quite literally eat my way through the country)

I’m not even going to cheat and reveal my runners-up; instead, I’ll put you to the challenge: with a year to travel, which five new countries would you visit?

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But no cash please. More and more airlines are moving towards a cashless in-flight experience, according to the Los Angeles Times. Seems that it's not enough to make you pay for things that were once free, but now the airlines want to tell you how to pay too.

Remember when things like food, drinks, and headphones were free? Neither do I. But I have heard stories about these freebies, about the good ol' days when the only thing you needed to worry about bringing on the plane with you was your book and maybe some fuzzy socks. Now I find myself stockpiling food, headsets, pillows, and all the other things that were included in the price of a ticket back in the day.

I recently flew from Dallas to New York and was thrilled to be one of the lucky few who were given a blanket by the flight attendant to keep warm on the freezing cold flight. Turns out though, maybe I shouldn't have been so pleased with myself, as it seems airlines rarely wash the blankets they hand out.

I guess I'll add a blanket to my list of Things I Need to Bring on My Flight. What's on your list and why?

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Posted in Air Travel, Packing & Baggage, Travel News
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Something fairly strange happened to me the other day. I showed up to the airport for a quick commuter flight to L.A., and the plane was delayed.

No, no--that wasn't the strange part (if only!) The strange part was that the agent checking me in said "oh dear, seems like your flight won't be taking off at 8:08pm as scheduled, but at 9:54pm instead. But don't worry, we can get you on another flight before then."

Curious, right? I mean, an unprompted offer by an airline employee to make up for poor service before I could even complain about it? Unheard of! But it actually gets curiouser. Curiouser and curiouser, in fact.

The flight the agent rebooked me on was with United. The flight I'd been supposed to go on was with Alaska Airlines. The two are not affiliated. In fact, when I asked the Alaska agent if I'd have to pay anything extra to be put on this new flight, she smiled and said "oh no, you don't have to pay a thing! We're paying."

Of course, I was surprised. Although, not as surprised as the United agent, apparently, who took one look at my ticket and said "wow, Alaska put you on our flight? That's nice of them. I don't know how much you paid for your ticket to L.A. with them, but I can tell you that it probably wasn't as much as they just paid us for you to be on this flight."

Unfortunately, the story doesn't end as happily as I might've liked---the United flight actually ended up being even more delayed than the original Alaska flight I was booked on. But still, I say Alaska deserves three cheers for excellent customer service and an unexpectedly proactive approach to righting the wrong. And I fully intend to give it to them. Anyone else experienced anything like this with other airlines, or have you always found it to be a case of "sorry, ma'am, nothing we can do," like I always had until now?

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I’m a little homesick this week. Not because I miss Momma's cookin’ or the familiarity of home but because Saturday marks a very important day in the lives of true Texans: Texas-OU Weekend.

The rivalry between the Longhorns and the Sooners runs deep. It’s a fairly strong hatred, really. Legend has it that way back in the day, the annual Texas-Oklahoma game brought together oil people from the two states. Back then, it was a nonconference game, but the fans still took their football seriously. Doing what billionaires do, these guys made what most would call pretty hefty bets – they put their oil wells on the line! Ah! The plot thickens! And so does the animosity between the two teams.

I don’t bet my oil wells (oh wait, I don’t have any), but I have enjoyed many a Texas-OU Weekend in Dallas, bar-hopping in Uptown or Lower Greenville. The spirit of the weekend is contagious, e