Welcome to The Window Seat: a blog for every traveler.

Why The Window Seat? Because if you're a traveler, it's how you take in the world around you. And because it's the best seat in the house, the one with the most captivating view - and that is precisely what this blog is about. Sharing travel perspectives and experiences.

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The Miles Struggle
  • By: Jennifer Gaines
    January 31, 2007

I operate under a strict card-only policy, absolutely refusing to carry cash. Even though the ban has left me stranded at toll booths a time or two, digging for loose change as cars line up behind me honking their horns, my wallet hasn’t seen a dollar bill in ages. I’m also the one who slows the line at Starbucks to put that $3 cup of joe on my American Airlines AAdvantage Card. Yup, you guessed it: all in the spirit of earning a mile.

While I’m thankful that American has a relatively reasonable policy (miles expire after 36 months of inactivity), carriers continue to reduce the shelf life of frequent flier miles, leaving many customers mourning over the loss of their hard-earned points.

U.S. Airways’ new policy goes in effect today, nullifying accounts that have been inactive for 18 months, and United Airlines will make the same changes on Dec. 31. Last month, Delta began deleting miles in accounts that have been idle for at least two calendar years.

The miles struggle will undoubtedly ensue as airlines attempt to clean-up their books. Unfortunately, this comes to the cost of loyal customers who have been forced in recent years to give up more miles for that upgrade or free flight.

page meadows.jpgLet It Snow
  • By: Tasha Carvell
    January 30, 2007

A friend of mine is on the management team at one of California’s most beloved ski resorts. When I told him that I was going to write my blog post bemoaning the lack of snow in the mountains this winter, he howled at me not to jinx them any further. Indeed, East Coast resorts are reporting their bleakest season in 25 years, alpine resorts across Europe have cancelled hundreds of race events due to lack of snow, and West Coast resorts are being forced to advertise top-of-the-line snowmakers and groomers rather than the usual eye-popping base depths and abundant powder stashes. And with the ten-day forecast offering no glimmers of great white hope, folks whose income is dependent on the snow are understandably edgy. However, once I explained to my friend that my timing (or lack thereof) is such that the moment I write about the dearth of snow, it will dump like no tomorrow, he acquiesced. So I’m offering this one up for all of my snow-seeker friends out there.

Most folks who have spent some time in a mountain town know that the inevitable early season stress we get over whether or not it will ever snow is nearly always short-lived – by mid-January we’re typically in powder paradise. But now that we’ve started inching toward February and the bases at many mountains are hovering well-below average for this time of year, the jokey anxiety has rightly turned into significantly-more serious concern.

When most of us think about climate change, we think about it impacting future generations 50 or so years down the road. But it’s entirely possible that global warming could very well be the cause of the snow famine we are experiencing this year. The buzz around the impact of various climate change triggers is certainly growing thanks to movies like Al Gore’s An Inconvenient Truth (if you haven’t seen it yet, do), but immediate action is essential to curtail the affect our carbon footprints and energy consumption are having on our lives today. You can learn more about how to offset your carbon impact here.

One final note: most people I know don’t necessarily associate skiers and snowboarders with social or eco- activism. I get that – there’s no question that the slacker “bro-brah” culture is alive and well. But I know plenty of the above mentioned folks who are doing significant things in the worlds of environmentalism and charitable giving who deserve to be recognized for their work. Check out the green ski movement, an effort spearheaded by Aspen-Snowmass resort to see the professional skiers and riders who have signed on to help spread the word about climate change. Then get your tickets for this weekend’s 3rd annual Squaw Valley Prom, an event organized by a bunch of Tahoe locals from which every cent goes to benefiting Charitysmith’s Anton W. Bakker Memorial Fund, a charity that helps low-income kids pursue their dreams.


winter.barn.jpgThe Wonder of A Winter Getaway
  • By: Amy Ziff
    January 29, 2007

Last weekend while at an interview on THE EARLY SHOW, the anchor, Jim Axelrod, scoffed at my suggestion of Newport Rhode Island as a fantastic wintertime getaway. But Jim, I stand by my claim. I love a winter weekend getaway! You can drive or fly to a popular summer spot and enjoy the off-season trifecta. Better prices. Fewer crowds. Great sales!

It's precisely this which calls my girlfriends and I each winter. In fact I'm just back from our annual trip, this year to the Hamptons. In the summer you can't pay me to deal with the traffic or the scene in the Hamptons – but in the winter, if you ask me, the bare beauty of the place is at its best. You can get into all of the restaurants. And the shops are making way for their summer merchandise with outstanding sales. Even at the designer shops. The house we rented had beds for all 12 of us. During the summer it would be attainable for only a handful of bankers, but for the weekend, it was less than $300 each.

Sometimes you get heaps of snow, slush, or rain so be sure to check the weather before you set out. But with the weather, you get the wonder or what I like to call the winter mystique – which is just the quiet of a place. Quiet which to me, seems a rare thing, in our busy travel-filled and bustling lives.

Winter getaways are equally good for lovers as families, friends and relatives. In fact, I love the winter getaway so much, I'm already thinking about my next one…

Free to Be, You and Knee
  • By: Rachel Berg
    January 26, 2007

I admit it, I’ve always been an airplane seat recliner. As soon as that “fasten seatbelt” sign goes off, I push my seat back that extra inch. But on a recent flight, my seat wouldn’t budge. Trying to get some momentum, I tried rocking back and forth and using my strength. Still no give. Finally, when the person seated next to me asked if I was okay, I realized she probably thought I was having convulsions, so I stopped.

Chances are, the reason I wasn’t able to recline is because the person sitting directly behind me had installed a Knee Defender™. Designed with the express purpose of preventing airplane seats from reclining, this new invention is causing quite a stir among those who believe in the right to recline and those who believe in the right to spare their knees and laptops.

And even though I’ve always been an avid recliner, I’ve come to realize that both sides have a point. I’ve never minded when the person in front of me reclines, because 1.) I’m short and 2.) I try and avoid using my laptop on the plane. But after reading testimonials on travel sites like Gadling.com from those who have a few inches on me, I’ve realized that it actually can be quite painful to have to take it in the knee on the flight. Also, many business travelers rely on their airplane time to get some important work done, and a reclined seat in front makes it very hard to open a laptop properly.

So who’s right in this sky-high battle? Certainly, there seems to be a lot of people out there with very mixed feelings. My solution: make the airlines give us more room in the first place! What’s yours?

Hawaii_Boat.JPG Personality Check
  • By: Sarah Sung
    January 25, 2007

Maybe I've read too many women's magazines in my lifetime, or maybe I'm a just a sucker for a quiz. So when I was reading an article in the January issue of Condé Nast Traveler that had a test in it, I immediately jumped online to take the 15-question Travel Personality Test. I mean, who doesn't want to know what their travel type is, right?

According to this article, the test is a result of a scientific study performed more than 30 years ago by social scientist Stanley C. Plog. Sixteen companies, including TWA, commissioned the study to learn why roughly 75% of Americans had never flown. According to his study and further research, he developed a scale of six personality types: Authentic, Mid Authentic, Centric Authentic, Centric Venturer, Mid Venturer, and Venturer. The Authentic type is your basic homebody who is risk-averse and prefers to travel in groups. On the opposite end of the spectrum is the Venturer who is really independent and takes risks all the time.

I fell into the Mid Venturer bucket, also known as the jet-setter. Essentially I love to travel (duh) and I'm constantly seeking new experiences and less traveled destinations (so true!). Here's where they really nail me: I'm physically active and love being adventurous, but I also cherish a fine meal and nice bed. They say luxury is an obsession, but the jury's still out on that because the reality of my budget seems to stymie my true nature.

The test results touch on media habits, shopping, and sports to a lesser degree, but when it came to suggested trips, I wanted to sign up for all of them. Actually for my birthday I'm going to Kauai and have been lobbying to take a kayak trip around the island (suggested trip #2).

Do you know your travel taste? Take the quiz!

Miami car.JPGAmerica’s Forbidden Fruit
  • By: Jennifer Gaines
    January 24, 2007

I’ve gotten close to Cuba a time or two. There was that time my girlfriends and I ventured through Miami's Little Havana, absorbing the rich culture of this ethnic enclave, where Cuban traditions infuse everything from its bustling eateries and coffee stands to its vibrant murals, music and art galleries.

With its high number of Cuban refugees, this neighborhood (I imagine) is a slightly Americanized version of the real Havana. Americans may soon find out how similar (or not) Little Havana and Cuba’s capital really are. As Fidel Castro’s health continues to fail, his brother leads the way in revisiting business opportunities with the United States, and U.S. tourism operators are among the eager opportunists as Washington talks of allowing Americans to vacation in Cuba once again. President Bush says he’ll veto any effort to lift the travel ban, but discussions still ensue as House Democrats attempt to overturn the injunction.

As if I don’t already have a million places on my must-see list, my fingers are certainly crossed for the lift, so I can add Cuba. As I’m expecting will happen with many U.S. travelers, the craving for this no-longer-forbidden fruit would trump everything else on my personal travel to-do list. Already popular with Europeans and Canadians, Cuba’s tropical climate, inexpensive resorts and close proximity would definitely lure other American’s to the Caribbean island as well.

As if it wasn’t bad enough that subway delays made me late for work this morning, en route, I got BlackBerry’d that British Airways’ cabin crew have backed a strike plan to ground service over the dates when I’m scheduled to go to London and Copenhagen next week. I know the world doesn’t revolve around me, but come on, but it’s my birthday!

As you can imagine, I’ve been busy dealing with this, so I haven’t had time to dig into the specifics of why the union is striking (something about sick leave and pay), and I haven’t had a minute to formulate an opinion. What I can tell you is that I have an eight o’clock reservation at Wilton’s next Tuesday night, and I’ll be damned if I have to miss it.

Unfortunately, the policy formerly known as Rule 240 does not cover force majeure, which acts of God and some acts of man, specifically strikes, are considered. However, British Airways announced a new policy, allowing anyone affected by this pending strike—it has not been officially announced—to make penalty-free changes to their departure/return dates. One problem: I refuse to move my birthday.

Despite being an avid traveler, I don’t take kindly to change. I’m supposed to be giving you the advice: be flexible, roll with the punches, an easy-come, easy-go attitude is a traveler’s best friend. That’s all true, but I threw out last week’s crossed-out “London/Copenhagen to do” list with a smirk of satisfaction, leaving only the packing left to be done. Now I’ve got to deal with the London and Copenhagen hotels, all of the restaurant reservations, and the emails and phone calls to friends who were joining us for dinner. It just creates more work for me, and I simply don’t have the time.

To complicate matters, I’m flying from London to Copenhagen in between two of the three scheduled strikes, meaning it’s possible that British Airways may not waive the change fee for this particular flight. I'm hoping BA will demonstrate the same flexibility that's being asked of me.

One option is to hedge my bets and wait to see if this strike becomes a reality. If it does happen, it’s possible that I will have missed the opportunity to shift my flights around by only a few days (they’ll probably be full). Even if I am able to rebook, it can take over a week to resume normal schedules after a strike, and I don’t feel like sleeping in an airport on my birthday. However, there is a decent chance this will all be averted during BA’s negotiations on Thursday. With any luck, by this time next week, we’ll be downing oysters at Wilton’s, as my husband makes fun of me for stressing over nothing.

(We’ve been telling you about the upcoming changes in passport regulations for a while, and today’s the big day! You will now need a valid U.S. passport to fly from the States to anywhere in the world, except Puerto Rico and the U.S.V.I.)

beach.JPGTravel for 2007
  • By: Amy Ziff
    January 22, 2007

Every time I think of the year 2007, I can't help but think of James Bond. (Go Daniel Craig and Casino Royale.) Perhaps it's fitting since I'm talking about traveling the world and Mr. Bond always appears around the world in order to save the world.

The latest series of stunning Bond backdrops were filmed in the Czech Republic, the Bahamas, Italy as well as in the UK. It kind of makes me itch to hit the road...

But forget about me, I always want to travel! What about you? Well I asked and I polled. (More than 1500 travelers answered.) Here's what I learned about the travel ahead in 2007.

One of the biggest themes in 2007 will be international travel. Two million more passports were issued last year than the year prior which will make it easier for some Americans to cross borders and explore new countries. Since this week marks the new passport regulations I thought I'd remind people that they can get a speedy passport in a pinch by going to certain agencies in person. I don't know about you, but I got my new passport last year and I've already begun to mark it up.

celestial.jpgIn the Shadow of the Moon
  • By: Rachel Berg
    January 19, 2007

If you’re feeling something in the air, it’s because the crescent moon and the planet Venus are gearing up for a torrid flirtation in plain sight this weekend. Saturday night, both will be paired up in the sky. If you’re into the voyeurism thing, breaking out the telescope will reveal little Mercury shining just below, as if trying to get in on the rendezvous. Those of you lucky enough to be traveling in South Africa or the Southern tip of South America will be treated to the most provocative views (the moon will actually appear to blot out the planet with its body).

Here in the U.S., the celestial courtship will be easiest to spot right at sunset, when Venus and the moon will appear strikingly bright and close together. I’m no scientist, so of course I came by my knowledge of how to find Venus in the sky directly from a Grateful Dead song: “The spiral light of Venus / rising first and shining best / from the northwest corner / of a brand new crescent moon…” Translation: wherever you are, step outside and look to the northwest right after dusk.

If you’re a novice star-gazer, like me, then traveling to places where the skies are dark yield rewards like shooting stars, the outline of the Milky Way, and infinite constellations. National parks and state beaches always seem to show off the best starry views, but it’s a special treat when what’s being staged in space can shine through the artificial lights of even the biggest cities.

This caps off a busy week for the skies. Earlier, the Southern Hemisphere was treated to views of what’s being called the brightest comet in 40 years. From Machu Picchu in Peru to Ayers Rock in Australia, Comet McNaught streaked across the sky bright enough to make any exhibitionist proud--and any astronomer blush. Already, though, this stratospheric striptease is on the wane as McNaught hightails it on back to the sun.

For those of us who check to see if there are any astronomical events taking place during our travels, there are more moon shenanigans in early March, when it undergoes a total lunar eclipse. I’m trying to decide where I should go to watch this one… Ocean, mountains, or desert?

sundance.JPG Movie Madness and Mountains of Merriment
  • By: Sarah Sung
    January 18, 2007

My movie-watching style is more Netflix than film fest, but one day I'd like to rub elbows with Hollywood celebs and film buffs in and around Park City and catch a glimpse of the latest indie flicks. After all, I've loved Napoleon Dynamite, An Inconvenient Truth, and Hoop Dreams, plus getting outdoors in Utah is a blast.

Today's the kickoff for the Sundance Film Festival, which is the largest film festival of its kind in the country. And although I've never attended this event, our U.S. version of Cannes in France, I have been to the Sundance Resort--and would return in a heartbeat.

When I sat down to write this, I realized that it's already been six years since I met up with my parents in Salt Lake City en route to a Mother's Day weekend at Sundance. My mom wanted to go fly fishing for her Mother's Day--yeah, pretty random. But we loved it! The entire weekend was active; first we hiked 1,000 feet up Mount Timpanogos to see the cave formations. Every morning I'd wake up to hike or run through Aspen trees to various waterfalls behind the resort. And, of course, on Mother's Day we strapped on our waders and stepped into the Provo River in hopes of landing some trout (and immediately releasing it back). Mom caught two, Dad got one, and I got zip. But it was about the journey, and I enjoyed standing in the middle of the river trying to master my technique.

There are relaxing things to do up there too, like eat--and mountain air makes me ravenous. We splurged for dinner at the elegantly rustic Tree Room, adorned with Native American art from Robert Redford's own collection. There is actually a huge tree growing through the roof, so the name is no joke. As a pollo-pescaterian, the only animals I eat are poultry and fish, but here I made an exception and got the bison (or buffalo). It was a huge portion of grilled meat served atop braised greens and some garlic potatoes. Yum! The Foundry Grill's Sunday brunch is basically a room that's filled with food of all kinds--from omelets and pancakes to apple-smoked meats and mountains of shrimp cocktail to strawberry-rhubarb cobbler and chocolate cake. They still serve every Sunday, and I'd suggest a Saturday fast--or at least pass up your midnight snack.

Rounding out our visit, we made jewelry and watched a ton of movies in our cabin. Since we were there in 2001, Park City was gearing up for the Olympics, and you could feel it in the air. The Wasatch Mountains and its surrounding area are surprisingly magical, and one of these days I'm going to return.

Perhaps Sundance Film Festival 2008! Maybe I'll volunteer--has anyone volunteered here before?

To Scan or Not to Scan
  • By: Jennifer Gaines
    January 17, 2007

Who isn’t confused about security regulations these days? Returning home from a trip last week, even I got held back at the airport security checkpoint (and I track this stuff for a living!). As soon as the monitor lifted my bag off the conveyer belt (giving me that discerning Ha! Gotcha! look), I realized my mistake: I had forgotten to take the plastic bag that held my liquid containers out of my carry-on. Doh!

The lady behind me groaned and rolled her eyes. (Something I’ve been guilty of doing, too. It’s a common, involuntary action when the only thing standing between you and your gate is an inexperienced traveler.) Only this time, I was that traveler. Not a good feeling.

In spite of the fact that there will always be travelers who inevitably slow the line, TSA is making strides to speed up the security process for those of us who (usually) know the ropes. The most recent of which is Clear Registered Traveler, a program that, among other efficiencies, introduced a new technology that detects explosives and allows passengers to keep their shoes on during the screening process.

Passengers who are enrolled in the Registered Traveler program for a yearly fee of roughly $100 (although it is currently only available at Orlando International, additional airports will soon be participating) can take advantage of the shoe scanner, which is intended to save a bit of hassle at security. It works by shooting radio waves at passengers’ footwear as they stand on a platform for 20-25 seconds. (This is not a long amount of time, but I did my own at-home test: I grabbed my most complicated pair of shoes–my fuzzy snow boots with laces that I often wear to cold-weather destinations–and timed how long it takes to remove my shoes and put them back on. The result was less than 10 seconds.)

The drawback I see to this device is that it doesn’t necessarily save travelers any time, and many travelers seem to agree. Other travelers enrolled in the program will have to decide for themselves if the saved hassle of slipping their shoes on and off is worth the loss of more than a few (sometimes critical) seconds. My vote is no. And you?

Nola beads.JPGHow ‘Bout Dem Saints?
  • By: Jen Catto
    January 16, 2007

We Are Marshall has nothing on the real-life comeback story that’s unfolding in the wake of the New Orleans Saints’ playoff win over the Eagles. Last weekend’s game had me on the edge of my couch, swearing like a sailor, desperate for a win for my adopted city. No place needed it more.

When I was a child, I was lucky enough to have neighbors who were born and bred in New Orleans. In my hometown of Brentwood, L.A.--with its stately homes and well-manicured denizens--Auntie Gayle and Unkie Ralph's zany ways were a departure from the norm. In short, they were more fun than anyone I had ever met. For Christmas, they wrapped their front door in gleaming, metallic paper with a giant bow like an oversized present and tangled themselves in battery-operated tree lights and bulb ornaments for my parents' Christmas Eve parties. When my brother and I watched scary movies at their house, they would jump up from behind the couch to incite even louder screams from us kids.

From an early age, I saw them as the embodiment of New Orleans, a bewitching place where music courses through the city's veins, where you dare not utter the word "voodoo," lest wandering ears "put da curse on you," and where the convivial spirit of Mardi Gras abounds all 365 days of the year.

I was in an oasis on the border of Libya when I first saw the satellite images of Katrina-devastated New Orleans. For the initial few hours (and with no subtitles on Kuwaiti TV), I mistook the scene for Haiti. Weeks later, I returned to the States to learn that Gayle and Ralph’s families had collectively lost 12 homes, including the one where Gayle's mother "Granny Goose" lived.

But like the Saints turnabout this year (remember how they used to be as famous for losing as our Knicks?), The Big Easy is rediscovering its mojo. For instance, Preservation Hall, a hallowed, albeit threadbare, music venue in the French Quarter has finally reopened. The last time I saw a show there, my 82-year old great aunt defiantly clapped and cheered and pretended to not hear us when we asked if she wanted to go home around 1am. I wondered how I could bottle the city's contagious brio...

Dick and Jenny’s, by far my favorite restaurant, perhaps anywhere, is also back in business. People are once again waiting upwards of two hours for the husband-and-wife team's reinvented down-home fare, taking to the barge board cottage's porch swings with a mint julep--or three.

Block-long lines are back at Mother’s too, where the mighty Ferdi Special, dripping with savory beef bits known as "debris," signals a return to normal. Even the once-traumatized animals at the Audubon Nature Institute are reportedly in better spirits, now that visitors have arrived to "oooh" and "ahhh" at them again.

With a possible Super Bowl win for the Saints (oh yeah, I said it), I predict les bons temps will be in full swing by the time this year's Mardi Gras rolls around in a few weeks. Will you be there?

4 airplane.JPGIs 2007 The Year of Airline Consolidation?
  • By: Amy Ziff
    January 14, 2007

If I were a betting woman…I might be tempted to say yes. But then again, at the beginning of 2006 I might have bet that a major airline would file chapter 11 and we all know that didn't happen. Ripe as the landscape appears for a merger in '07 I'm reluctant to put down any money.

With all the recent rumors of Delta's possible buyers – whether hostile or hospitable – fewer airlines will mean only one thing for us paying customers: higher prices. While I'm not going to argue the fact that having airlines around is far better than not, I'm just saying higher fares are, well, higher fares. (And yes, I understand that we're enjoying incredibly low fares if you do the cots analysis of what airfares were say, 20 years ago, and take into account inflation, higher wages etc… That's not what I'm talking about.) I'm just saying that the airline business is a classic supply and demand scenario. We've watched what has happened over the past couple of years as airlines have grown leaner they've pulled excess capacity out of the system and with fewer seats available ticket prices have gone up and they continue to go up. A merger will only push them higher.

As for whether or not any airlines will merge this year, I cannot say. But one thing I do know is that while airlines recover and become profitable (and have you noticed that airline stocks are up and they're finally getting buy ratings again?!) we can breathe a bit easier with buying tickets, accruing our loyalty points, and planning our vacations ahead of time. But will the deals of 2003 or 2004 be seen again? Not likely any time soon.

view.jpgA Room With a View
  • By: Rachel Berg
    January 12, 2007

Since we evolved out of the primordial soup, we humans sure like to keep our gaze fixed firmly on the water--and we’re willing to pay more and more to keep it there. Take the case of the double-wides over in Briny Breezes, Florida. In December, a group of trailer home owners were offered millions of dollars. Why? The lots overlook a spectacular stretch of Florida beach. This week, by an overwhelming vote, the mobile home owners ratified the agreement. And that’s the way it goes. Whether it’s a cruise ship or a Maui hotel, rooms with a view always fetch a premium price.

When I first moved to California as a starry-eyed east coaster, my main goal was to find an apartment with a view of the ocean. To meet my budget, I literally ended up in a pigeon trap of a place, with a fire-eating boardwalk performer for a building manager, but I had my ocean view, and--as they say--watching the sunset over the Pacific from my living room couch: priceless.

I’ve learned the hard way that a bad view can cast a negative pall over an entire vacation, like when I pulled back the window shade in a Utah hotel, and found an inexplicable stack of oxygen tanks right outside. Or, there was the time when I stayed by the Oakland Airport and overlooked a 24-hour fast-food drive-through with a very popular parking lot.

So I understand why the trailer homes are worth so much. An ocean view is constantly in motion, with ever-changing colors, a soothing soundtrack, and the endless drama of ships, sky, and seagulls. For many of us, it’s a visible reminder we’re not at home any more, that we’re somewhere ripe with new adventures and possibilities.

Now that I live in San Francisco, I’ve traded my sunset couch in for a convenient location, which is why I’m always willing to shell out a little more when I travel for a view of the sea. But how much is too much? Can you put a price on an ocean view?

I recently embarked on a journey through the regions of France, not just to see the sites, but also to experience the culture through its yummy cuisine. Mmmmm, heaven!

I started planning this eating extravaganza before I even booked my ticket – mainly by working out and eating healthy. Hey, I needed some wiggle room if I wanted to pig-out on vacation! One thing I didn’t plan for was the fact that I’d be traveling to France, the land of cheese, with my vegan friend.

I enjoy guilt-free eating on vacation. It’s one of the best ways to experience culture, but I had to wonder how my strictly vegan friend was going to influence my choices. After all, the French don’t hold back on the butter or the cream. Foie gras, gizzards, and pork find their way onto many a plate, and cheese is regarded as a staple in ones diet.

My traveling companion is a vegetarian-turned-vegan from California who prefers tofuturkey with veganaise on the side. She closely inspects food labels for any suspect ingredients and only proceeds if the food-of-choice meets her vegan standards. Despite the fact that the trip was going to put her lifestyle to the ultimate test, she was a good sport about it and resolved to eat non-vegan goodies only as a means of survival. On day one, we arrived in Paris grumpy and hungry after our long haul from the States. During a stop at our first café, my vegan friend ordered toast (no butter) and coffee (no cream). The rest of us ordered café au laits and croissants that were deliciously drenched in butter. So far, so good, but you could call this beginners’ luck. The quest for vegan cuisine was all downhill from there.

I’m a meat-eater from Texas who enjoys her steaks medium-rare, topped with lots of butter. I’m grossed out easily but am willing to close my eyes and hold my nose if necessary to give a new dish a fair chance. (A few years back, when I was in New Orleans, the prospect of eating foie gras made me cringe, but I took a breath and dug in. I had to choke back my gag reflex as the chunks of liver slivered down my throat, but, at last, it was down the hatch.)

But in France, I was a different kind of eater. As we drove through the countryside, my friend spotted a duck farm. Her comment: “ahhh, how cute!” My response: “mmmm…foie gras!” Insensitive, I admit, but it was the moment of truth as we began our two week journey through foie gras country.

Later, we ventured to the small town of Vichy, where my friend’s family owns a creperie. It was closed for the Christmas holiday season, but we had a private crepe party with a few local friends. The non-vegans devoured crepes filled with cheese and ham, while my friend opted for a plate of spinach and potatoes.

We pressed on to Bordeaux, where we spent several days with a friend who made a dish from the Savoie region called Tartiflette. Consisting mostly of Roblochon cheese, bacon, cream and potatoes, it was clearly not consistent with the vegan lifestyle my friend enjoys. She ate only the chunks of potatoes found throughout the dish.

Into week two of our vacation, my friend grew tired of searching for vegan food with no luck. Her pants are getting a little looser, while the rest of us are forced to unbutton the top latch after each meal. C’est la vie!

After our never ending quest for vegan dishes in the land of cheese, I found myself wondering how, if at all possible, vegans can live in Europe. Our search for vegan options failed, sending me to the Web, where I found VegDining, a site that would have made my friends culinary quest slightly more enjoyable!

Penguins.JPGGetting Hot in Here?
  • By: Sarah Sung
    January 10, 2007

The other night a few of us were at a bon voyage dinner for a buddy who was taking off for three months to study ice cells in Patagonia. This time last year, I went to Buenos Aires, but I couldn't take the extra time to fly down for glacier viewing at the tip, and I've regretted it ever since. Back at the restaurant, we were trying to feed our cravings for adventure with summer rolls and clay pot salmon, but it wasn't working, so we started to plan our own trip: Kilimanjaro in 2008!

Between the elevation, ice, and days of hiking, we figured this was going to be the expedition of our lives. Then I watched Al Gore's An Inconvenient Truth, and realized that we already missed out on seeing Mount Kilimanjaro in its heyday. A recent prediction was that by 2020, the glaciers that have existed atop Mount Kilimanjaro for thousands of years will likely have melted away. And dramatic natural events like that are becoming less and less shocking. From the equator to the poles, animals are facing extinction. Soon there might not be frogs in Costa Rica or polar bears in the Arctic.

Even if less ice on Kilimanjaro means an easier trek, the environmentalist in me wishes the trend of global warming wasn't moving at a break-neck speed. It's now official that 2006 was the warmest year in U.S. history. And as for the heat wave on the east coast, all I can say is: There's something wrong when men are going shirtless in New York in December.

I already ride my bike instead of drive around San Francisco, I shop at the farmer's market, I refuse extra bags when shopping, and I recycle everything that's recyclable. As a traveler, I don't ask for fresh linens each day, and I'm also starting to go carbon-neutral so that the gases emitted from flying and driving will be offset by planting trees. On a recent "How to Make a Difference" article in Travel and Leisure, I learned that packing lighter and opting for a paperback over a hardback book can reduce emissions. Even with all of this, there's got to be more I can do.

I don't have children yet, but I hope that when I do they'll get to splash in the ocean, run through fields, and bike with their friends--like I did as a kid (and still do).

Greek-sardines.JPGPutting My Foodie Souvenirs to Use
  • By: Jen Catto
    January 09, 2007

There are a handful of constants I employ in all of my travels--everything else, I leave to chance: I always visit museums, ride the local transportation, learn to say “hello,” “please,” and “thank you” in the official language, and I always explore the markets. According to my husband, who has been dragged to countless farmstands, grocery stores, and open-air stalls around the world, no kitchen-related item is too mundane to peak my curiosity. (To that I say, “Have you seen the scrub brushes they use in Seoul?”)

Sussing out ingredients unique to far-flung corners of the world is my kind of treasure hunt, one which makes good use of my Kiva convertible duffle bag. This is why I check the mail every single day in January, desperately awaiting the arrival of the Saveur 100, a compendium on insider food finds from the editors of Saveur magazine--kindred spirits in all travel-related ingredient quests.

I'm a junkie for these discoveries. For example, on the tiny, sybaritic island of Paxos in Greece, I picked up what my husband and I dubbed the “yacht starter,” a gasoline jug from the yacht supply store that we filled with olive oil straight from barrels at the local press. The olive groves on Paxos were planted by 15th-century Venetians, and the golden oil is so delicious, we sipped it from shot glasses at the local tavernas. Plus, back then, you could carry a five-gallon jug of olive oil on your lap during the flight home.

Last February, while my husband was recovering from the middle-of-the-night Super Bowl coverage in Paris, I was at La Grande Epicerie stocking up on a dozen different mustards, sea salts, huckleberry juice extract for newfangled mimosas, and fleur de sel caramels. Similar shopping in Italy has yielded a shelf’s worth of porcini bouillon cubes.

In Tunis, I scoured the souks for harissa, loose mint tea, and kebab spices in the most mesmerizing labyrinth of a medina I have ever seen (it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site).

This past fall, I returned from South America with Chilean sea salt crystals the size of pebbles (65 cents a pound at the mercado). In Buenos Aires, I snagged more olive oil, this time in an easy-to-pack, decorative metal tin. Homemade dulce de leche, gigantic dried wild mushrooms from Patagonia, and a bottle of Tannat wine that we sampled from the beguiling Finca Narbona vineyard during a long weekend in Uruguay also made it into my luggage. Tannat is a European varietal that was thought to be lost, but has recently been re-discovered in Uruguay. FYI, they don’t export the good stuff.

A month in Turkey left me with jars of local honeycomb and jewelry boxes packed with real saffron for $2 each, many of which I’ve given as hostess gifts. During a stint in Hawaii, we stocked up on guava jam, red volcanic salt, and passion fruit BBQ sauce from the farmers market in Waimea. A luau party helped clean out the pantry that time, but I still have a freezer-full of obscure Oaxacan dried chilies (did I really need 10 pounds?).

Occasionally I am disappointed to find that a stop at Whole Foods could have saved me the trouble of lugging pantry items back home; however, 99 percent of the time, I stumble upon condiments that simply can’t be found anywhere except the places where they are made. To me, those $5 purchases are worth more than their weight in gold. Food is an ambassador to culture, and bringing home these ingredients is an inexpensive way for me to recall that cultural experience, using sight, smell, taste, and touch.

As you might have deduced by now, my pantry is chockablock with foodie souvenirs. With a kitchen renovation planned for the next few weeks, I’ll be losing one cabinet, so I’m pressed to put these items to good use. Even so, the hunt continues... Which foodie souvenirs have you brought home recently?

lizard.jpgExtreme Tourism or Tourism Extreme?
  • By: Amy Ziff
    January 08, 2007

Did you know that in Mexico you can visit a place where you go through a mock border crossing? Uh, yeah. That's right. For extreme tourists or practicing wanna-be crossers there is a tourist attraction that is luring (and also is alluring) to some who are looking for an, er, escape.


I came across this piece, picked up from the Dallas Morning News, and thought – OK now this is tourism going too far. But supposedly the park is not just for fun. According to the article it's supposed to teach of the perils of illegal crossings and discourage them in the future. Although you get to run, crawl, and hide at this park -- I still remain skeptical.

What's next a nuclear war theme park? Sounds kind of grim. And possibly--shockingly--kind of cool. Did I just say that?

funky.jpgFeeling Funky
  • By: Rachel Berg
    January 05, 2007